Visiting Pahranagat Valley, Alamo is like stepping into the past

A verdant strip of green surrounded by desert, the Pahranagat Valley offers glimpses of the West as it used to be. Located 90 miles north of Las Vegas along U.S. 93, the valley supports several large working ranches around little Alamo, Lincoln County's southernmost community. Folks started ranching in the valley by the 1860s. The town grew up to serve a growing population's needs. Founded in 1901, Alamo never grew big enough to be incorporated.

Today, travelers welcome the change of scenery along the busy desert highway. As northbound travelers enter the valley, they admire stands of cottonwoods outlining the margins of wetlands and lakes within the 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. Refuge side roads access scattered picnic and camp sites near the water, available free of charge on a first-come basis. Visitors enjoy spotting some of the thousands of birds stopping over as they wing along this arm of the Pacific Flyway.

Up the valley, the cottonwoods provide shade for cattle, sheep and horses growing sleek in grassy pastures. In Alamo, the trees shelter buildings and define the few streets of the old town. They provide dense cover around Ash Springs, the main source of water for the valley.

Several natural warm springs associated with the huge White River drainage system create the verdant oasis, watering ranch pastures and collecting in the shallow Pahranagat Lakes. Some of these springs created ponds that became favorite swimming holes for generations of Pahranagat residents.

Because of its population of native pupfish, the largest of these springs is closed. Little Ash Springs is now a favorite local spot for picnics and swimming right off the highway, accessed by an unmarked side road near the larger spring.

Long before the arrival of the pioneer ranchers, native cultures lived in the valley, drawn by its abundant water and the wildlife attracted to the water and vegetation. They left signs of their occupation at several rock art sites with petroglyphs and pictographs, as well as scattered rock chips from tool making and broken pottery around campsites.

Visitors interested in visiting ancient rock art sites find information in a series of drives described in "The Greater Lincoln County," a brochure with maps put out by the Nevada Commission on Tourism in cooperation with Lincoln County, the Bureau of Land Management and other entities. Check online at lincolncountynevada.com or Nevada rock art websites.

Today, most folks coming to Pahranagat Valley are just passing through. Alamo caters to passers-by, inviting them to stop for a bite to eat, a cold drink, a chance to gas up and a place to stay overnight. Get off the highway to tour what remains of the old town. Look for the 1930s high school building that is now a school annex. Next to it, admire the 1917 school house repurposed as a private residence. On adjacent streets, note a few modest homes with early 1900s flavor. A desert cemetery accommodates early residents, neatly kept, but lonesome.

After years of little change, Alamo has some new attractions to boast about. Cowboy's Dream, an exclusive Western-style bed and breakfast with eight luxurious suites joins the varied ranks of Nevada B&Bs. Just down the highway stands Windmill Ridge, a cafe and on-site bakery with 17 family-friendly cabins offering country-style comfort. Both new properties were developed by the same corporation to complement each other, since the inn takes only adult guests.

Open last August, Cowboy's Dream has become a destination. Outstanding architecture, hand-crafted furnishings, lush landscaping, attractive outdoor assembly areas and delectable dining room fare make it a site for special occasions. Built as a home as well as an inn, it offers its guests exclusive privacy, quiet and comfort. Expect personalized attention from its friendly staff.

Staying at Cowboy's Dream is pricey. Guests pay $500 per night, inclusive of food and beverages. If they forgo dinner, the cost is $350. For suites, call (877) 885-2236 or visit www.cowboysdream.com.

For visitors who want to sample the fare, tour the grounds and see the public areas of the house, the 9:30 a.m. Sunday breakfast is a nice option at $25; reserve at (775) 725-3500.

Margo Bartlett Pesek's column appears on Sundays.