Bar + Bistro’s creative menu a good fit for Arts District location

Silly me; I should’ve known. Not only did we not have a long wait (or any wait), but there were only a few tables filled in what is a pretty small space.

If you don’t know Bar + Bistro — and, judging from the lack of a crowd on that recent weeknight, I’m guessing you don’t — it’s in the space, adjacent to the Arts Factory, that was a Paymon’s and before that Tinoco’s. It retains the arty feel launched by Tinoco’s, with palette-shaped tables and other clever touches, and, like its predecessors, it serves awfully good food.

And, as was the case with its predecessors, I don’t understand why the crowds don’t flock to its door.

Bar + Bistro’s copper-clad menu was clearly conceived by someone with a pragmatic as well as a creative streak. There’s a broad selection of tapas, which not only are trendy these days but increasingly popular with numerous demographics for flexibility of portion and meal makeup and convivial style of dining. There are some bocadillos, also known as sliders, which are likewise popular for similar reasons. There are entrees for the classicists. There’s even a Hangover Brunch menu, which ought to dispel any lingering notions about downtown hangovers with the likes of a Benedict with crabmeat, plantain-garlic mash and a quail egg.

For us it would be tapas, and we found ourselves struggling to limit their number. There were a few classic dishes plus some more innovative ones, in the tradition of the best tapas joints, and we mixed it up as we went.

An heirloom tomato gazpacho ($7) was a special that sounded inviting on a sticky, sultry evening. And indeed it was, nicely chilled and with a decidedly astringent tone since the kitchen had wisely emphasized the flavors of the tomatoes, which are enough to evoke memories of childhood summers.

Four-cheese mac ($11) was on the other end of the spectrum, campanelle pasta cloaked with a thick (that’s a good thing) mixture of cheeses, with smoked gouda and Manchego for depth, cheddar (and piquillo peppers) for accent and fontina for its nutty, gooey nature. The dish was further brightened with some chopped tomato, and a crisp Parmesan frico served on the side was a nice bit of textural contrast.

Clamato ($12) promised sweet baby clams and delivered them in spades. They were tiny, they were tender (or at least as tender as clams can get), and the roasted-tomato-saffron broth was augmented by dark lager for added layers of flavor.

A pile of sweet plantanos ($6) was lovely, the soft plantains gently cooked and coated with a lightly sweet glaze. There was a mystery ingredient sprinkled over this one, tiny white cubes that presented only a degree of neutrality against the sweetness and that appeared to be queso blanco.

The garlic pollo ($8) was the most classic dish we ordered, and true to form, the tender, moist chunks of chicken were assertively garlicky, their sherry butter a testament to centuries of tradition.

And, from the bocadillo side, the Filet Steak Pave ($5), the meat impossibly tender and rich with beefy goodness, the pickled shallots, greens and Cabrales cheese adding earthy flavors and crisp textures.

Service was pretty decent overall, although there were, strangely, some lapses at beginning and end.

The environment was for the most part comfortable, with rustic wood-bricked floors and the aforementioned palette-shaped tables, although we thought the upholstered booths could use a sprucing.

But spruced or not, they sure wouldn’t deter us from returning to Bar + Bistro. And they don’t answer the enduring question of why chain restaurants across the valley have lines out the door while worthy little spots like this are struggling.

The eternal mystery.

Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at 383-0474 or email her at hrinella@ reviewjournal.com.