HEIDI’S PICKS
Heidi’s Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.
BLT BURGER
The Mirage, 3400 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 792-7888
A inhospitable hostess notwithstanding, BLT Burger was a lot of fun and a lot of good food. The fried dill pickles were flavor-packed and so light as to be almost pickles tempura, and we also found the macaroni and cheese bites, regulation burger (with blue cheese added), a lamb tandoori burger and toffee milk shake all worthy of a fine American tradition and the reputation of the French chef — Laurent Tourondel — who’s given his name to the place. (12/19/08)
Overall: A- $$
MARCHE BACCHUS
2620 Regatta Drive; 804-8008
An ownership shift launched Marche Bacchus through some turbulent waters for a little while, but after a chef change and some tinkering, all is well again. We loved the lakeside outdoor terrace and the extensive selection in the retail wine shop – and $10 corkage in the restaurant — but no less than the artisan cheese platter, beef tartare, rack of lamb, pork chop and flourless chocolate cake. (4/17/09)
Overall: A- $$$
SUSHI YAMAGUCHI
5900 W. Charleston Blvd.; 646-0300
No cutesy or risque names for the rolls here; this is an authentic Japanese sushi restaurant, which distinguishes it from plenty of others in the valley. It’s a small spot, so you can see the sushi chef work even if you’re not right at the sushi bar, and we liked the way he served three of our rolls on one big platter, because it seemed to make mixing-and-matching a little easier. We didn’t like that they were out of some common things, but we did like the Firecrackers appetizer, artichoke roll, Alaska roll, shrimp and asparagus roll and the Futomaki, with mushrooms, spinach and crisp squash sticks. (10/31/08)
Overall: B+ $$
TUSCANY GARDENS
Tuscany, 255 E. Flamingo Road; 947-5910
The sauces were a little old-school — a little heavy, and heavy on the oil — but in the meatballs and marinara sauce, both acid tests for Italian restaurants, Tuscany Gardens acquitted itself quite nicely. We also liked the beef carpaccio and the Pollo Melanzana, with its layered chicken and eggplant and cheese, plus the fact that the Italianate decor wasn’t overly schmaltzy and that this casino restaurant so close to the Strip wasn’t overly pricey. (9/4/09)
Overall: A- $$