HEIDI’S PICKS
Heidi’s Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.
MANTRA MASALA
8530 W. Warm Springs Road; 598-3663
Mantra Masala bills its food as healthy without making any specific claims of that nature but a clear avoidance of excess fat is an obvious good start. A plus is that unlike much "healthful" food, Indian cuisine — especially as executed by Mantra Masala — is inherently flavorful. We loved the sweet, sweet Mussels Masala and greatly enjoyed the simple vegetable samosas, garlic nan, lamb korma and chicken mantra. (11/7/08)
Overall: A- $$
PIERO’S ITALIAN CUISINE
355 Convention Center Drive; 369-2305
Piero’s has many of the trappings of a conventionaire/tourist-centric restaurant– the location close to the convention center, the high prices, the multitude of tables for large parties– but much about it doesn’t feel touristy, and that would include the quality of the food and service. We were extremely pleased with the roasted artichoke, Saltimbocca alla Romana, Fettucine A Modo Mido — fresh fettucine with broccoli, mushrooms and pancetta, to you and us — and a creamy, not overly sweet tiramisu infused with a striking coffee flavor. (9/11/09)
Overall: A $$$$
SIMON RESTAURANT & LOUNGE
Palms Place, 4381 W. Flamingo Road; 944-3292
There’s a definite whimsical air about Simon Restaurant & Lounge — witness the cotton candy and Rice Krispie treats — but the kitchen knows when it’s time to be serious, too. That’s evidenced by the various surprises hidden in the menu, such as the shredded-apple and celery-leaf "slaw" with the Crispy Rock Shrimp and decidedly citrus notes of the braised shortribs. Also worthy of note: classic steak tartare and Grouper Casino, with the flavors (and clams) of the classic Clams Casino. (6/5/09)
Overall: A- $$$$
SUSHIWA
790 Coronado Center Drive, Henderson; 263-5785
What we think of as second-generation sushi places — those that borrow from other culinary traditions for innovative sushi that’s particularly appealing to Americans — are extremely popular, which means they tend to be extremely crowded. Not so with Sushiwa, which hasn’t been discovered. Yet. We loved the Henderson Roll, Banzai Roll, the whole-avocado Pocky Roll, a shrimp tempura roll — even a Korean barbecue sushi roll. (7/6/07)
Overall: A $$$