Heidi’s Picks
Heidi’s Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.
GOLDEN STEER STEAK HOUSE
308 W. Sahara Ave.; 384-4470
This icon of Old Las Vegas turned 50 in 2008 but it hasn’t faded a bit, with red-leather U-shaped booths and other decor clearly refreshed without losing any of its period charm. We stuck to the classics with a gin martini, shrimp cocktail, tomato salad, cream of corn, Chicken of the Angels, filet mignon and tableside Cherries Jubilee and were pleased with it all. (1/25/08)
Overall: A- $$$$
SEABLUE
MGM Grand, 3799 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 891-3486
San Francisco-based Michael Mina has long shown that he has a way with seafood, and his approach at Seablue is more casual than usual, though no less creative. Cod crusted with almonds and cooked in a traditional Moroccan tagine with couscous was infused with a sprightly hint of lemon that did honor to both the fish and the preparation method. Besides the tagines, the menu features create-your-own salads, grilled fish and steaks and such starters as a trio of seafood appetizers, whimsical little lobster corn dogs and a warm chocolate pudding cake that was more indulgent than a day at some spas. (7/16/10)
Overall: A$$$
SUSHI YAMAGUCHI
5900 W. Charleston Blvd.; 646-0300
No cutesy or risque names for the rolls here; this is an authentic Japanese sushi restaurant, which distinguishes it from plenty of others in the valley. It’s a small spot, so you can see the sushi chef work even if you’re not right at the sushi bar, and we liked the way he served three of our rolls on one big platter, because it seemed to make mixing-and-matching a little easier. We didn’t like that they were out of some common things, but we did like the Firecrackers appetizer, artichoke roll, Alaska roll, shrimp and asparagus roll and the Futomaki, with mushrooms, spinach and crisp squash sticks. (10/31/08)
Overall: B+$$