You definitely want to give Buddha Belly Deli a try

How did I find it? I’d noticed it while driving by a few times, but the name didn’t exactly pull me in because it just seemed kind of confusing. But while I was looking for a nearby restaurant online, Buddha Belly Deli popped up on a website and I decided to give it a try. And I’m sure glad I did, because you’re going to want to know about it.

Buddha Belly is an example of one of the most interesting trends in the culinary world today, which is the fusion of flavors and styles from various cuisines. In this case it’s mostly Asian traditions that are being fused, although there are touches of Middle Eastern, Southern and even New England mixed in here and there.

Asian/New England? That would be the Thai Clam Chowder ($3.50), billed as “East meets West in a bowl.” It hasn’t exactly been soup weather lately, but that was a pretty intriguing description, and it turned out to be an accurate one. Think of a Thai soup — gai tom ka is my favorite — merged with a New England-style clam chowder that’s chock-full of clams and you’ll get the picture. This soup had multiple levels of flavor and was slightly rich and entirely satisfying.

Fried Brussels sprouts ($5), a blackboard selection, were intriguing for a different reason. Chefs are doing all sorts of interesting things with Brussels sprouts these days, but frying wasn’t something I’d seen. These, which were literally heaped on a good-sized platter, had been doused with soy (and I think I detected subtle touches of ginger and lemongrass) before they were fried. The effect was very successful, the soy mixture nicely balancing the cruciferous aspects of the sprouts.

Short Rib Red Curry Flatbread ($12) was another winner. A lot of times something labeled “flatbread” is served on what’s tantamount to a cracker or lavosh, but this one, while thin and crisp, was relatively stretchy. It also had quite a kick from the red curry, mellow notes from the short ribs and mozzarella and flavor sparks from caramelized onions, slices of red bell pepper and minced scallions.

And, finally, the Pho Dip ($9), the sort of thing I wouldn’t be surprised to see more of. This one was basically a banh mi based on sirloin rubbed with Chinese Five Spice Powder, piled with crisp vegetables and herbs and served with a hot dip that was indeed reminiscent of pho.

Buddha Belly Deli is a counter-service spot, but much more pleasant than most in that category, with bamboo wainscoting, rich red walls and a few arty elements. Service was much better than at most of them, too, owing in large part to the very pleasant young woman behind the counter, who also brought our food and cleared dishes as we finished.

I certainly know by now not to judge a book by its cover, or its name, but occasionally I get distracted. Buddha Belly Deli serves as a reminder that pleasant surprises are out there, just waiting to be discovered.

— Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Email Heidi Knapp Rinella at Hrinella@reviewjournal.com. Find more of her stories at www.reviewjournal.com and follow @HKRinella on Twitter.