Celebrate Basque culture at festivals across the state
Nevada’s rich heritage includes the colorful traditions of the Basque people of the Pyrenees Mountains between France and Spain, whose young men came to the American West to work, primarily as sheepherders tending flocks on open range. Some returned to the old country, but many stayed, raised families here and wove themselves into the fabric of the Silver State.
Basques retain elements of their culture through social clubs that sponsor annual festivals or picnics. These gatherings feature traditional music, dance, games, skills contests, food and special religious observances. Participants don colorful, traditional costumes. Some of the older folks attending still speak the language of their ancestors, an ancient tongue unlike others spoken in the Old World, with roots obscured by time.
The Basque festival season in Nevada begins today with a day’s fun in tiny Paradise Valley, a scenic and historic spot north of Winnemucca. Six other festivals follow this summer and fall. Obtain details from local sources or sponsoring organizations. Since these events draw crowds to Nevada’s smaller towns, make hotel, motel or RV park reservations early.
A larger event in Winnemucca takes place June 11 and 12, drawing spectators to its Saturday parade route downtown. After the parade, head out to the Event Center at the fairgrounds for a savory luncheon, dancing, music and various contests. On Sunday, a Basque breakfast and more music and dancing follows a Catholic Mass.
The annual National Basque Festival in Elko over the Fourth of July weekend remains one of the town’s largest events. The local Basque club first organized the festival 48 years ago. Events begin July 1 in the evening at the fairgrounds. Activities on July 2 include a 5K run, a parade, games, music, traditional dancing and an evening social dance. On July 3, a Catholic Mass celebrated in the Elko City Park begins activities, followed by a noontime picnic and afternoon exhibitions and dancing.
Reno Basques gather on July 23 for festival events in Wingfield Park near the Truckee River. The gathering promises Basque food, music and entertainment.
In August, Basques celebrate their heritage at a festival in Gardnerville on Aug. 13 and an afternoon picnic in Battle Mountain on Aug. 27. The Gardnerville Basque Festival features traditional costumed dancers, music, singing, contests and food, followed by parties continued at popular Carson Valley Basque restaurants.
The last Basque gathering this year occurs in Southern Nevada on Oct. 17. The Las Vegas Basque organization plans a gathering at Spring Mountain Ranch State Park from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Observances begin with a Mass celebrated at 11 a.m., followed by a picnic lunch of traditional foods. Reserve at 303-0133.
Basques also socialize at a dozen Basque restaurants across Nevada. Some of the best-known are attached to hotels near the railroads that brought the immigrant herders to the West in towns such as Elko, Reno, the Carson Valley and Winnemucca. The hotels often housed the shepherds when they brought their thousands of sheep down from summer grazing in remote mountain ranges.
These eateries remain popular not only with those of Basque background, but with anyone partial to ample, substantial, flavorful food available at moderate prices. The more traditional dining rooms serve meals family-style at long tables where you might be seated with strangers, which encourages conversation and conviviality. Often, the dining rooms adjoin bars where patrons sample the powerful Basque picon punch while they wait for their seating.
Basque food arrives in courses, starting with soup and salad with bread, often sourdough. A house red wine comes chilled. Beans, french fries and other vegetables usually accompany two or three meat entrees of lamb, beef, pork or chicken and sometimes seafood, all redolent of garlic and onions. A simple serving of ice cream typically completes the courses. No one goes home hungry.
Margo Bartlett Pesek’s column appears on Sundays.