Bratalian offers classic Italian, relaxed setting

Luckily for the rest of us, Pellegrino has addressed that concern by opening Bratalian Neapolitan Cantina, 10740 S. Eastern Ave., Henderson.

Pellegrino, formerly of Rao’s Las Vegas, also operates Bacio by Carla Pellegrino and Pellegrino’s Pizza and Deli, both at the Tropicana. For Bratalian, which opened a little more than three months ago, Pellegrino had in mind creating "a little mom and pop Italian restaurant."

The name is a play on Pellegrino’s heritage (born in Brazil, grew up in Italy), and Pellegrino describes the restaurant’s culinary focus as "clean, classic Italian."

The restaurant seats about 90 in cozy, casually witty — underthings hang from the ceiling as if drying on a clothesline — surroundings.

"There is no pretension," Pellegrino says. "It’s very pretty.

"I want you to feel relaxed. I want you to feel like your grandmother is cooking for you."

And while Pellegrino is adamantly Italian on her menu — "I don’t mix cuisines," she says — she will give props to the other side of her heritage by offering a Brazilian brunch Saturdays from noon to 5 p.m. starting June 25.

Bratalian is open Tuesday through Sunday from 5 to 10:30 p.m. Reservations aren’t required but are recommended, particularly on weekends, and dress is "nice casual," Pellegrino notes.

Starters: Calamari in umido (calamari stewed with fresh tomato), $12.50; zuppa di cozze and vongole (mussels and Manilla clams), $11.50

Salads and soups: Insalatina di Mare (calamari, shrimp, lobster, crab meat salad), $14; fagioli, cipolle and tonno (lima beans, red onions and albacore tuna in citronette sauce), $6; pasta and fagioli, $7

Pasta: Penne all’arrabiatta, $16; linguine con gamberi and arugula, $24.50

Entrees: Pollo alla Milanese, $21; cotoletta di Maiale in agrodolce (pan-seared pork chop), $21.50

Extras: Polpette tradizionale (meatballs in fresh tomatoes and basil sauce), $9.50

Desserts: Tiramisu, $8.50; torta di ricotta, $8.50

Information: 454-0104