Ceviche an exploration of influences at Las Vegas restaurants

By Al Mancini

Las Vegas Review-Journal

6 years ago

Estiatorio Milos at the Cosmopolitan puts a Greek spin on ceviche.

Lobster ceviche at Mordeo.

Once’s ceviche brings a mix of Japanese and Peruvian cooking.

Thai basil ceviche at The Black Sheep.

Other Mama’s ceviche features octopus, shrimp and whitefish, with a touch of habanero.

Estiatorio Milos

This seafood spot at The Cosmopolitan puts a Greek spin on the dish. Loup de mer (Mediterranean sea bass) is paired with fresh and wild herbs of the Mediterranean, gigante beans and feta cheese. $42. Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, 702-698-7930, cosmopolitanlasvegas.com

The Black Sheep

While chef Jamie Tran is best known for pairing her Vietnamese roots and fine French dining, she also creates a mean Thai basil ceviche. It’s prepared with fermented yuzu avocado mousse, watermelon radish, prawn cracker and diced papaya. $12. 8680 W. Warm Springs Road, 702-954-3998, blacksheepvegas.com

Other Mama

This seafood and sushi spot creates its ceviche out of octopus, shrimp and whitefish. For heat, chef Dan Krohmer adds a touch of habanero. $13. 3655 S. Durango Drive, 702-463-8382, othermamalv.com

Once

The focus here is Nikkei cuisine: a mix of Japanese and Peruvian cooking. The ceviche features sea bass, shrimp, scallop and squid in leche de tigre (a marinade of fish juice, lime, chile, salt and pepper), accompanied by dried Peruvian corn kernels known as maiz chulpe. $28. Palazzo, 3327 Las Vegas Blvd. South, 702-607-3797, oncelv.com

The Review-Journal is owned by the family of Las Vegas Sands Corp. Chairman and CEO Sheldon Adelson. Las Vegas Sands operates Palazzo.

Mordeo Boutique Wine Bar

A touch of coconut milk adds an unexpected creaminess to the lobster ceviche at this popular new small-plates spot, while mango habanero salsa adds some sweet heat. Scoop it onto the accompanying tostones (twice-fried plantains). $28. 5420 Spring Mountain Road, 702-545-0771, mordeolv.com

— Al Mancini