MAKING SCENTS
Kilian Hennessy’s goal seems simple. All he wants is for perfume to return to its 19th-century roots, when it was thought of as a true luxury and only the finest ingredients were used. But, considering where perfume is in this day and age, the perfumer’s feat presents quite a challenge.
According to Hennessy, the essential oils alone in his fragrances cost more than Chanel No. 5. That explains the price point of his By Kilian Fragrances ($225 for 50 ml.) as well as the quality. Each uses pure ingredients. The origins of some are surprising: Don’t be Shy is based on an old cooking recipe to make marshmallows.
Not only have impure ingredients compromised the integrity of the industry, Hennessy says, but so have scents that come from celebrities who’ve never stepped foot in a perfumery. "If you saw J.Lo and asked her if she could do opera, she would say no," he says. "If you asked if she could make a sculpture, she would say no. A painting? No. But can she make a perfume? Yes."
As the nose and mind behind By Kilian Fragrances, Hennessy aims to separate himself from the perfume masses by avoiding overexposure. Rather than distribute the product through 2,500 doors, the way most new launches do these days, he chooses to cap it at six in the United States. In Las Vegas, it’s sold at just one retailer: Saks Fifth Avenue.
The collection — L’Oeuvre Noire, the Black Masterpiece, by Kilian — consists of six scents. Each comes with the kind of packaging that encourages recycling. The case that holds the actual bottle can be reused as a jewelry box or decorative vanity piece. When the perfumes run out, users return to the counter and refill their bottles with a cask, an ode to the perfumer’s family background.
As part of the Hennessy legacy, Kilian can’t use his last name for any business ventures because it was part of the contract when Hennessy was bought out and later became part of LVMH (Louis Vuitton Monet Hennessy). The cask is his way of paying homage but respecting the agreement at the same time.
"It’s very hard to lose your name and have it in the hands of other people," he says. "But this branch will stay in the family."