Bringing real wood paneling back to life

Recoating requires that you clean the surface, then lightly sand to rough up the old finish. Any sanding residue (vacuum and tack cloth) should be removed and then a new topcoat finish applied.

It sounds fairly simple, but there can be serious problems with the new coating bonding with the old. If the paneling was finished with polyurethane, you shouldn’t have any adhesion problems, as long as wax was never on the existing surface. Wax is a refinisher’s nightmare. Once a wood surface has been waxed, even a pro won’t guarantee that a new topcoat will adhere, despite best efforts to strip off old wax. Your only choice is to refinish the surface by using a stripper to remove the existing topcoat, sanding down to bare wood and starting over.

Wax isn’t the only thing that ruins adhesion. Cleaning products that leave an oily or waxy residue, grease, bug spray (for ants and termites) and even such things as spilled wallpaper paste can ruin adhesion.

It’s best to test a section for adhesion before proceeding. Select a small, inconspicuous area on the wall (in a corner along a bottom edge or behind a couch near the floor or similar). Use a wood cleaner, such as the cleaners specially formulated for wood flooring, to clean the area. Tape off the section (it should be at least a 6-inch square) with masking tape. Sand lightly with 100-grit sandpaper to roughen the surface. Wipe off the dust and coat the section with oil-based polyurethane or a water-based urethane. The oil-based product will be the most durable and is actually the easiest finish to apply.

Let your testing patch dry for 24 hours. Then, check for adhesion by scraping the topcoat with a coin or even your fingernail. If it flakes off, you have an adhesion problem and you’ll have to completely refinish the surface.

If you have good adhesion, you can take the following steps to recoat the entire paneled surface: 1. Clean with a recommended wood cleaner, or a mixture of  1/4 cup white vinegar and 1 cup of water; 2. Rough the surface with 100-grit sandpaper; 3. Remove sanding residue with a vacuum and tack cloth; 4. Apply the new topcoat with a brush, paint pad or sponge brushes.

When using cleaners, avoid sponging the walls with excess moisture (water and wood don’t mix). Use a cloth dampened with the cleaning solution. Be sure the surface is thoroughly dry before continuing.

If you have any areas that are marred, such as surface scratches, touch up these blemishes with a wood stain that is slightly lighter than the existing stain. As the stain penetrates the wood, it will tend to darken somewhat.

If you don’t think your paneling needs a recoating — the wood is dingy but cleaning and oiling would enhance the surface — there a number of cleaners on the market that contain cleaners and wood oils, sometimes wax. You can try one of these products, but read labels carefully. If you think you could end up recoating, take extra care not to use a product that would cause problems with re-coating adhesion.

Some commercial products available at home centers, furniture stores and hardware stores include: Panel Magic (wood oils in the product) marketed by Magic America Chemical Corp.; Orange Glo marketed by Orange Glo International Inc.; Murphy’s Oil Soap marketed by The Murphy-Phoenix Co.; NewLife Wood Moisturizers; and Formsby’s Wood Rejuvenators.