Staking trees a short-term measure to help trunk establish strong root system
Q: I live in what seems to be a very windy part of the valley. All of my trees have been staked since the landscape was installed several years ago. When can I remove all that lumber from the yard?
A: This is quite common. Staking should be a short-term measure to support trees during establishment. Most trees should be capable of supporting themselves within one year of planting. Try removing the tie material from the trunk, but leave the stakes in place. If the tree is capable of standing on its own, then remove the stakes. Prune the canopy if necessary.
If the tree does not stand on its own , look closely at the ground as you push against the tree trunk. If the ground moves or the trunk wobbles in the planting hole then the tree is not well rooted into the ground. Often this means that there may be serious problems with circling or girdling roots, or it can be a that the tree may be planted too deep. Call your landscaper to inspect the tree and the planting pit to determine the best course of action.
Q: The stakes on my sumac tree appear to be causing damage. The top of one of the stakes has cut a notch into the biggest limb and one of the wires inside of the garden hose is wedged in the area where a limb attaches to the trunk. What should I do now?
A: Poorly installed support methods often do considerable damage to trees. Staking systems should be inspected monthly to ensure that the tie wires are not cutting into the bark or becoming imbedded into the crotch (area of branch attachment). Loosen all tie wires to allow for firm support of the tree without causing damage. Tree trunks should be allowed to flex and sway in the wind even when attached to the staking system. This movement helps to build trunk tissue. Rigidly staked trees do not build solid wood, which makes them weaker and dependent on the stakes.
If the wire becomes lodged in the trunk tissue or in the crotch, use a pair of pliers to pull the tie material from the bark tissue. If only lightly imbedded, the wire may be removed and the wound will eventually seal over. If the wire is deeply cutting into the tissue then it may be impossible to physically remove it. Simply cut the wire on each end as it emerges from the bark and file off any sharp ends. In many cases, the tree or branch may survive this damage. Watch closely for weakness and remove the tree if there is any concern for failure.
In regards to the notched branch, if the cut is not too deep, the tree will build bark tissue over the wound. Just remove the stake to eliminate the cause of the damage, or if the stake is still required, cut off the top of the stake to a point where it will not cause any more harm. If the notch is very deep, then there is a chance the limb may fail as it becomes heavier. Consider what the tree would look like without the branch. Remove the limb if necessary. If the limb is a major part of the canopy, then consider pruning some of the weight off of the limb to lighten the load. Watch the limb closely over the next few years to see if the wounded area builds new bark tissue.
Stakes should be installed at the lowest point where they provide support but do not rub or cause injury to the tree. Landscapers should cut the stake tops at the time of planting to eliminate potential damage. As a courtesy, landscapers should return to remove staking systems for their clients.
Dennis Swartzell is the marketing director for Mountain States Wholesale Nursery. As an ISA board-certified master arborist and a member of the Southern Nevada Arborist Group, Swartzell has been helping Southern Nevadans with their gardening questions for over 25 years. If you have a question about a particular plant, or a general gardening issue, send them to Swartzell at treemender@cox.net.