Anthony’s Prime Steak & Seafood wins with its Rockefeller

If you like Oysters Rockefeller, you should try the classic dish at Anthony’s Prime Steak &Seafood at the M Resort.

We had a feeling from the moment the dish was placed on the table that it was going to be something special. The oysters ($16) rested on the usual bed of rock salt, arranged on a long, narrow rectangular plate. What wasn’t so usual was what was mixed in with the salt: whole spices, including star anise, cinnamon and peppercorns, that provided a lovely, lovely aroma. The anise scent, although subtle, was noticeable enough that it hinted of the Pernod that’s traditionally used in this dish and provided a hint of what was to come.

But these oysters weren’t all window dressing. The spinach mixture that topped them was mixed with a rich Bechamel, topped with just a hint of cheese. And the oysters themselves were absolutely perfect, plump and briny, without a hint of aftertaste. They were, without a doubt, the best Oysters Rockefeller we can remember, and we were certainly off to a good start.

Actually, the good things started even before the oysters, with the bread basket (I just got a little excited there). It was quite a generous basket for two, but we loved the variety of the multiple sheets of lavosh, some topped with poppyseed, some with sesame, plus breads that included walnut-raisin, French and slices of baguette. Very nice.

This is primarily a steakhouse (the one that unwritten law says every Las Vegas casino property must have), so steak it would be. One thing that’s different about Anthony’s is that among the steaks it offers are some from steers raised on the Montana ranch owned by the Marnell family, whose scion, Anthony, developed the resort, and for whom the restaurant was named. The other steak selections were wet-aged, and choice grade. The Double Fork Ranch steaks, while somewhat pricier, were dry-aged, which we prefer, and Prime, ditto. So it would be a 20-ounce, bone-in New York sirloin ($45).

And again, wow; double forks up. We’d ordered it rare — which is how we think any good cut of beef should be enjoyed — and it was perfect, the thick cut char-seared on the outside and a cool red inside. And the big beefy flavor was superlative, so much deeper and richer than the vast majority of steaks we encounter around town. Double Fork steaks can be ordered with bearnaise, peppercorn or bordelaise sauce, and we’d asked for bearnaise just in case. It was brought only after we reminded our server (one of the few service flaws of the evening), and while it was a pure rendition with plenty of tarragon flavor, it certainly was unnecessary, the steak doing quite nicely on its own.

Fish is clearly another specialty, and that fit the pan-seared Dover sole with Champagne butter ($42). Again, the freshness of the seafood ensured a sweet, delicate flavor that stood alone quite nicely, no sauce required.

As is customary at upscale steakhouses sides were optional, but both entrees were served with a pile of frisee with strips of radicchio. And we added one side, the tater tots with bacon and white cheddar ($9). They were far larger than the average tot, crisp-edged and flecked with liberal amounts of bacon and cheese, but no match for the quality and execution of the bread, oysters, steak or fish.

Or dessert, come to that, Anthony’s Signature Milk Chocolate Souffle ($14), which requires a 20-minute wait and was totally worth it. The souffle itself was perfect, light and still creamy, with a delicate milk chocolate flavor, but the coup de grace was what our waiter called “liquid mousse,” a silken chocolate mixture that he poured into the souffle after he breached the delicate crust with a spoon.

Service was, overall, professional and polished, water glasses refilled frequently and with regular checks to ensure we weren’t in need. The surroundings are pleasant, the view of the resort grounds serenity-inducing. It was the equal of or superior to many a dinner we’ve had on the Strip, but for less money and with less traffic.

And I’ll not wait long before again indulging in those Oysters Rockefeller.

Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Email Heidi Knapp Rinella at Hrinella@reviewjournal.com, or call 702-383-0474. Follow @HKRinella on Twitter.