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Three locals among ‘Top Chef: Just Desserts’ contestants

When "Top Chef: Just Desserts" returns to TV today (10 p.m., Bravo), local residents may spot some familiar faces: Three of the 14 competing pastry chefs -- or, as the network calls them, "chef'testants" -- live and work in Las Vegas.

Hubert Keller, who's one of the "Just Desserts" judges and has a local connection through his Fleur restaurant at Mandalay Bay, isn't surprised by the high proportion of local residents.

"One thing about Las Vegas when you're talking about pastry chefs is artistry -- sugar pieces, sculptures and major things," Keller said. The challenges of creating intricate pieces come with the job here: "huge pieces, chocolate."

"It's a great field for pastry chefs to work," he added. "There are other cities where you just couldn't sell a piece with $30,000 worth of sugar."

Contestant Christopher Hanmer, owner of The School of Pastry Design, said he is a little surprised that there are more local pastry chefs competing on the show than there are from Chicago (one) or New York (two).

And actually, our city tends to be well-represented on most of the chef competitions on the airwaves.

"I'm proud that there are so many people from Las Vegas," said Hanmer, 33. "I think that Las Vegas in general, from a lot of industry standpoints, just brings top-level professionals, in entertainment, culinary or, in my case, pastry. Food is a huge entertainment in people's lives."

"I think there's a lot of talent in Las Vegas," Keller said. "There are so many great restaurants." He said it's a natural progression that there would be a large number of talented younger chefs working under the masters at the various resorts.

Carlos Enriquez is a true veteran of the Las Vegas pastry world; he's worked here three times. The Los Angeles native, 33, came to Las Vegas in 1995 to work at Luxor and later Paris Las Vegas before departing for Denver and then Yosemite National Park. He returned for the Hard Rock and a short stint at Alex at Wynn Las Vegas, then went back to Los Angeles. Then he was recruited by Block 16 to open Holstein's at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas last December and is working on two of the group's upcoming projects, at the Royal Resort and The Venetian.

So he's been around the block a few times, and he understands what Las Vegas has to offer.

"Vegas allows us to have a lot more toys than other restaurants," he said. Because of the support of the big resorts chefs frequently get "all the equipment you can think of," plus greater accessibility to ingredients.

"You really get to grow in Vegas," Enriquez said.

Craig Poirer, at 25 one of the youngest contestants, already has had a chance to grow. He started out as a business major at the University of Nevada, Reno, before deciding baking was "an awesome creative outlet." He's been out of pastry school for only two years.

"To be given this opportunity is unbelievable," Poirer said of "Just Desserts." He said he's "not even exactly positive" what the experience will mean to his career but that it already has brought him a job opportunity, since he met Enriquez on the show and moved to Holstein's from First Food & Bar at The Shoppes at the Palazzo.

"Anything else is icing on the cake," Poirer said. "No pun intended."

He agreed that Las Vegas attracts younger people in the culinary field.

"They want to come and work for the best," he said. "I think in Las Vegas there is a huge pool of talent."

Bravo doesn't tell the chef'testants why they were chosen, but they all have theories.

"Personally, I think it's because I'm hilarious," Poirer said.

"Because I'm horribly good-looking," Hanmer said. "That's what my wife says, anyway."

"I guess I can be quirky at times," Enriquez said.

But of course there's that drive that supports their dedication to what can be a demanding career.

Enriquez said he's a father of six, "so I'm like a father figure. I can be serious; when it's time to work, it's time to work. I put my head down and get things done. I only get quirky when I get really tired."

"I think they were looking for talented people with a diverse background," Hanmer said. "I'm honored to be a part of it." A former World Pastry Champion, he said, "I want to bring the level very, very high."

"I really like rustic American styles," Poirer said. "I try to do them in a little bit of a different way." He said he likes to mix nostalgia with modern techniques; "hopefully that's what will impress people."

All of them said it's an experience to be enjoyed -- and not only for the $100,000 prize money furnished by KitchenAid and the feature in Food & Wine magazine.

As Hanmer said, "It's my favorite culinary/cooking show."

Holstein's is planning a viewing party at 9:30 this evening at the restaurant at The Cosmopolitan, 3708 Las Vegas Blvd. South. Food and drink specials are planned.

Contact reporter Heidi Knapp Rinella at hrinella@ reviewjournal.com or 702-383-0474.

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