Visiting three ghosts in Central Nevada

Three ghosts of Nevada's past lie in northern Nye County in the forested foothills of the lofty Toquima Range. Manhattan and Belmont provide glimpses of Nevada's history, while little Round Mountain has all but disappeared as open-pit mining near the site expands.

To reach the old Central Nevada towns, follow U.S. Highway 95 north to Tonopah, 209 miles from Las Vegas. In Tonopah, turn right at the junction with U.S. Highway 6. Travel east on U.S. 6 for 5 miles to the junction with state Route 376. Head north on this main route through Smoky Valley to the Round Mountain Gold Mine and nearby Hadley, the company town 54 miles from Tonopah. You can return to explore turnoffs to Belmont and Manhattan after visiting the mine.

The free tour of the open-pit mining operation at Round Mountain makes a fascinating excursion. Call the mining office at least a day ahead of your visit to arrange a tour at (775) 377-3162. Plan to be there before 11 a.m. To witness blasting in the pit, arrange your visit for Monday through Thursday.

To reach Manhattan, return south to the turnoff onto state Route 377. Drive 7 miles on Route 377 into the hills to reach Manhattan, known early on as the "Pine Tree Camp."

Manhattan grew as a result of silver ore discoveries in 1866 but was abandoned by 1869. Gold discoveries in 1905 led to the emergence of a small town with three banks, three newspapers and about 75 wood-framed buildings.

A decline followed the 1906 San Francisco earthquake when financing disappeared. Prosperity revisited Manhattan in 1909 with a gold boom. Mining continued with the development of hydraulic placer mining until World War II, with a yield of about $10 million. Mines operated intermittently over the next decades.

Manhattan today is home to about 50 people. Most buildings are ruins, except for the post office, the 1874 wooden Catholic church moved from Belmont in 1906, the Miner's Saloon and the 1906 Manhattan Bar. The bar has a four-unit motel that was added in 2004 and some RV spaces. Call (775) 487-2304 after 11 a.m. for room quotes and reservations.

Belmont lies about 12 miles from Manhattan, linked by scenic roads. Pavement on Route 377 ends at Manhattan, but a good graded road runs through the woods to meet the Belmont Road, a paved pathway from Route 376. Head north to Belmont, passing its cemetery. You'll also return to Tonopah on this road.

Once Nevada's second-largest town behind Virginia City, Belmont today is home to few permanent residents and a home away from home for part-timers with cabins who enjoy cool summers, access to ATV routes, fishing, hunting, hiking and winter sports. Visitors must plan for no gas, no stores and spotty cellphone reception.

The old town boasts many intact original buildings thanks to the vigilance of residents who defended Belmont from vandals for decades. Among occupied buildings in town, visitors find a saloon, a station for wilderness horseback pack trips and the quaint and cozy Belmont Inn housed in a series of neighboring structures. Contact the inn at (775) 482-2000.

The handsome former Nye County Courthouse overlooks the town, protected since 1974 as the Belmont Courthouse State Historic Park. Ask at the inn about a tour of the building with a volunteer guide. The website (parks.nv.gov/bc.htm) for the Nevada Division of State Parks details its history.

Belmont dates from rich silver discoveries in 1865. The subsequent rush drew 2,000 people to the remote site at 7,600 feet by 1867, the year the state Legislature moved the county seat from fading Ione to thriving Belmont. The county contracted for a new courthouse for $22,000 in 1876.

Locally quarried stone formed the structure's foundation. Kilns for mortar and brick produced materials on-site for its walls. Milled timber came overland from a distant railroad stop. A two-story, red brick building with contrasting stone trim and a white cupola atop the roof rose above the town. Alas, with another change of fortunes, Belmont lost its position of importance in 1905 to then-booming Tonopah.

Margo Bartlett Pesek's column appears on Sundays.