Heidi’s Picks

Heidi's Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.

BOUCHON

Venezia Tower at The Venetian, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 414-6200

It still seems as incongruous among the Italianate trappings of The Venetian as on the day it opened, but Bouchon has worn very nicely, delivering French-bistro fare that's as authentic as it gets. Notable were a charcuterie board, the Poulet Roti (roast chicken), Triute aux Amandes (trout almondine) and the silken-sin richness of the Mousse au Chocolate Noir, which requires no translation. (7/31/09)

Overall: A $$$

I LOVE SUSHI

11041 S. Eastern Ave.; 990-4055

I Love Sushi is one of a growing genre of sushi restaurants that are refining and redefining the art to be more in keeping with American tastes. To that end there's a heavy reliance on tuna and salmon, but we're not complaining. We liked the Joe's Special, Sex on the Beach, the I Love Sushi Special, the Lisa Hand Roll, the John Holmes Roll and the Tornado. And a vanilla mochi for dessert. And there's teriyaki, teppanyaki and yakisoba, in case sushi's not your thing. (4/14/09)

Overall: A $$

LETICIA'S MEXICAN COCINA

7585 Norman Rockwell Lane; 445-7722

"No yellow cheese," Leticia's promises on its website and indeed it delivers good, authentic Mexican food, including a top-notch rendition of Mexican street corn -- rare in Las Vegas. We also liked a puffy chile relleno, beef tamales offered as a daily special and queso fundido with mushrooms. (5/7/10)

Overall: A- $