Heidi’s Picks

Heidi's Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.

ELLA EM'S SOUL FOOD

775 W. Craig Road; 823-4444

Soul food is the ultimate comfort cuisine and what Ella Em's delivers is indeed comforting for the soul. The fried chicken (we chose the all-white meat) was crisp, juicy and otherwise a fine example of a classic, the pork chop well flavored but not as meaty as we expected. Corn bread was so moist we ate it with a fork and the side dishes shone -- the black-eyed peas, mixed vegetables, sauteed cabbage, rice and gravy, mashed yams and collards. (1/11/10)

Overall: B+ $$

GOLDEN STEER STEAK HOUSE

308 W. Sahara Ave.; 384-4470

This icon of Old Las Vegas turned 50 in 2008 but it hasn't faded a bit, with red-leather U-shaped booths and other decor clearly refreshed without losing any of its period charm. We stuck to the classics with a gin martini, shrimp cocktail, tomato salad, cream of corn, Chicken of the Angels, filet mignon and tableside Cherries Jubilee and were pleased with it all. (1/25/08)

Overall: A- $$$$

SWITCH

Encore, 3131 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 248-3463

The unique interiors of this restaurant -- yes, interiors in the plural, because the walls and ceilings periodically switch among three permutations, which is very cool -- are spectacular, but don't overshadow superlative food and flawless service. We happily recommend the risotto with champagne and Parmesan, oysters on the half shell (three from the West, three from the East), seared Arctic char, organic free-range chicken, gratin Dauphinois, creamed spinach and chocolate crunch bar. (4/10/09)

Overall: A $$$$

VIA BRASIL STEAKHOUSE

1225 S. Fort Apache Road; 804-1400

We have several Brazilian steakhouses/churrascarias in Las Vegas, most of them on the Strip. And while we're big fans of dining on the Strip -- there are, after all, a lot of world-class restaurants there -- for this genre we'd suggest you head to the suburbs. That's because Via Brasil does it up right with an extensive, high-quality buffet/salad bar, great side dishes and excellent meats (18) that keep on coming, such as truly moist bacon-wrapped turkey, salmon with an optional mango sauce and garlicky garlic picanha (top sirloin). (6/26/09)

Overall: A $$$