HEIDI’S PICKS

Heidi's Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.

B&B RISTORANTE

The Venetian, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 266-9977

This is clearly not your parents' Italian restaurant; uberchef Mario Batali and partner Joe Bastianich forgo the Sinatra for the screamin' guitar and breathe fresh air into their fare, such as a roasted beet salad, prosciutto San Daniele Riserva, orechiette with sweet sausage and rapini, grilled lamb chop with eggplant, roasted cherry tomatoes and a limoncello and poppy seed torta. (9/28/07)

Overall: A- $$$$

DONA MARIA TAMALES

910 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 382-6538 (also at 3205 N. Tenaya Way)

Dona Maria Tamales is the real deal; if you don't believe us, just ask some of the fans gathered for the futbol games on satellite TV. Tamales wrapped in just-dense-enough masa harina are the specialty of the house and the cheese version had a filling that was just firm enough and had just enough peppers, its tender pork counterpart with just a bit of a kick; even the beans and rice are better than we normally encounter. And on a return visit, we'd be sure not to miss the queso fundido con chorizo. (7/14/09)

Overall: B+ $$

MORTON'S THE STEAKHOUSE

400 E. Flamingo Road; 893-0703

The slogan sounds like adspeak-- no doubt about that -- but it turns out to be true: Morton's is The Steakhouse. We loved it all, including the crabmeat cocktail, salad of tomatoes with purple onion and blue cheese, sesame-encrusted yellowfin tuna, New York strip, Lyonnaise tomatoes, creamed spinach and Grand Marnier souffle. And during the Power Hours in Bar 12-21 during the early and late evening, we can get Morton's Bar Bites and Mortonis at bargain prices. (2/12/10)

Overall: A $$$$ ($$ during Power Hours)