HEIDI’S PICKS

Heidi's Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.

BRIO TUSCAN GRILLE

Town Square, 6653 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 914-9145

Brio looks a lot more like a Tuscan manse than an outlet of a restaurant chain based in Columbus, Ohio, but that's just part of its appeal. It manages to deliver the familiar with a slightly innovative edge, as in the garganelli carbonara with not only the customary bacon and Parmesan but also grilled chicken and fresh spinach leaves, bruschetta Caprese that blends the best of both dishes, a somewhat-too-subtle artichoke-and-herb-crusted pork chop, a trio of creme brulee and a lovely soup of the day, creme of morel. (9/5/08)

Overall: A- $$

MONTANA MEAT CO.

6371 Centennial Center Blvd. (also at 9135 S. Durango Drive); 396-7615

We were impressed with the 16-ounce rib-eye in Montana Meat's signature pepper marinade not because it was a great steak -- it was more of a good steak -- but because it was priced at $18.95, when other places around town were charging twice that for similar quality. A starter of flavorful tiny lamb chops, moist bacon-wrapped scallops with a sprightly orange-mango chutney, macadamia-crusted Alaskan halibut and some really good sourdough bread were all likewise worthy of note. (8/22/08)

Overall: B+ $$

ORIGIN INDIA

4480 Paradise Road; 734-6342

I loved the service, atmosphere -- even the ease of access and parking -- at Origin India, but especially the food, of which we sampled the Dahi Ke Kebab (shrimp in garlic sauce), Lhasooni Jhinga (deep-fried patties of yogurt cheese), Murg Lehsooni Kebab (tandoori chicken with garlic), Gosht Dahiwala (lamb cooked with yogurt and a cashew sauce) and, for dessert, a carrot cigar. (10/6/06)

Overall: A $$