HEIDI’S PICKS

Heidi's Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.

THE GRAPE

Town Square, 6599 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 220-4727

Two things surprised us about The Grape: That the wine list wasn't more broad, and that the food was so good. We thoroughly enjoyed our glasses of 2007 Two Hands Gnarly Dudes Barossa Valley Shiraz, however, as well as a classic Caesar salad; cambozola, prosciutto and fig flatbread; baked brie in pastry; and a tenderloin steak sandwich. (6/19/09)

Overall: A- $$

LAWRY'S THE PRIME RIB

4043 Howard Hughes Parkway; 893-2223

Lawry's the Prime Rib has a limited menu -- mostly prime rib cut at the table by a guy pushing a domed silver cart, with a couple of seafood selections and a ribeye steak tossed in -- but maybe it's just that stick-to-what-you-know philosophy that had made the company so consistently reliable for 70 years. We love the prime rib (both the California cut and the slightly larger Lawry cut) and also the crisp-crusted sourdough bread, Spinning Bowl Salad, mashed potatoes, creamed corn and lovely Yorkshire pudding. (11/20/08)

Overall: A $$$

MARKET GRILLE CAFE

7920 W. Tropical Parkway; 396-0070 (also at 7175 W. Lake Mead Blvd.)

This sure doesn't look like a counter-service restaurant and the food sure doesn't taste like it. It's actually more of a hybrid since the food is brought to the table on real dishes and with real flatware. The Greek cuisine is the real deal, too, and we say "Opa!" to the dolmades, saganaki, pomegranate chicken, moussaka and -- talk about something living up to the name -- Aphrodite's Cheesecake, which is on a baklava crust. (10/10/08)

Overall: A $$

MARSSA

Loew's Lake Las Vegas, 101 Montelago Blvd., Henderson; 567-6125

Marssa's happy hour is a little unusual in that it's only an hour, fairly late as these things go -- 6 to 7 p.m.-- and Tuesday through Saturdays, instead of just weekdays. We think that's a bid to get people to come in and try the place, and it works, because Marssa puts on an awfully good face during happy hour. We were particularly enamored of the crunchy salmon roll, the beef kushiage and the lumpia, and the sake portion that was very generous at happy-hour prices. (10/2/09)

Overall: A- $$