HEIDI’S PICKS

Heidi's Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.

GOLDEN STEER STEAK HOUSE

308 W. Sahara Ave.; 384-4470

This icon of Old Las Vegas turned 50 in 2008 but hasn't faded a bit, with red-leather U-shaped booths and other decor clearly refreshed without losing any of its period charm. We stuck to the classics with a gin martini, shrimp cocktail, tomato salad, cream of corn, Chicken of the Angels, filet mignon and tableside Cherries Jubilee and were pleased with it all. (1/25/08)

Overall: A- $$$$

SERGIO'S ITALIAN GARDENS

1955 E. Tropicana Ave.; 739-1544

In some ways Sergio's is classic old-school Italian -- linen tablecloths and frescoed walls and formally dressed Italian-accented waiters -- but the menu's been updated for modern tastes and sensibilities. Worthy of note: the Antipasto Mista d'Italiana, lasagna and Pollo alla Marchigiana. Oh, and the house salad, minestrone and especially the pesto served with the Italian bread basket. (7/10/09)

Overall: A- $$$

SHABU-SHABU PARADISE

1716 W. Horizon Ridge Parkway, Henderson; 385-4567

We couldn't figure out why Shabu-Shabu Paradise wasn't packed on the evening of our visit, aside from the confusion that may stem from its "Japanese fondue" subtext. That's accurate, but only to a point; shabu-shabu is generally lighter than fondue, and more healthy. It's done flawlessly at Shabu-Shabu Paradise, where we enjoyed the half-shrimp and half-scallop and half-beef and half-chicken shabu-shabu combos, and also shrimp with wasabi cocktail sauce, edamame and vanilla ice cream with fruit topping. (5/2/08)

Overall: A $$

SWITCH

Encore, 3131 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 248-3463

The unique interiors of this restaurant -- yes, interiors in the plural, because the walls and ceilings periodically switch among three permutations, which is very cool -- are spectacular, but don't overshadow superlative food and flawless service. We happily recommend the risotto with champagne and Parmesan, oysters on the half shell (three from the West, three from the East), seared Arctic char, organic free-range chicken, gratin Dauphinois, creamed spinach and chocolate crunch bar. (4/10/09)

Overall: A $$$$