HEIDI’S PICKS

Heidi's Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.

CANAL STREET

The Orleans, 4500 W. Tropicana Ave.; 365-7111

Prices at steakhouses across the valley have gone sky-high in recent years, and in most cases, they're not worth it. So we were particularly pleased to find good value at the elegant Canal Street, where we enjoyed a salad of mozzarella and peppers, oysters Rockefeller, a filet mignon, Parmesan-crusted veal cutlet Tuscan and a chocolate lava cake. Excellent (but not snobby) service put the icing on the cake. (6/29/07)

Overall: B+ $$$

ISLA

Treasure Island, 3300 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 894-7111

Overly strong and overly spicy seafood enchiladas put a damper on our dinner at Isla, which was otherwise notable for very good sweet roasted corn soup, queso fundido, roast pork Pipian, flan atop a corn cake -- even the requisite chips and salsa. For good service and an atmosphere that's colorful but not kitschy, we'd happily return to the island. Just not to the fish. (6/15/07)

Overall: B $$

SWITCH

Encore, 3131 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 248-3463

The unique interiors of this restaurant -- yes, interiors in the plural, because the walls and ceilings periodically switch among three permutations, which is very cool -- are spectacular, but don't overshadow superlative food and flawless service. We happily recommend the risotto with champagne and Parmesan, oysters on the half shell (three from the West, three from the East), seared Arctic char, organic free-range chicken, gratin Dauphinois, creamed spinach and chocolate crunch bar. (4/10/09)

Overall: A $$$$