HEIDI’S PICKS

Heidi's Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.

B&B RISTORANTE

The Venetian, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 266-9977

This is clearly not your parents' Italian restaurant; ueberchef Mario Batali and partner Joe Bastianich forgo the Sinatra for the screamin' guitar and breathe fresh air into their fare, such as a roasted beet salad, prosciutto San Daniele Riserva, orechiette with sweet sausage and rapini, grilled lamb chop with eggplant, roasted cherry tomatoes and a limoncello and poppy seed torta. (9/28/07)

Overall: A- $$$$

PIN KAOW

1972 N. Rainbow Blvd. (also at 7835 S. Rainbow Blvd. and 9530 S. Eastern Ave.); 638-2746

We did Pin Kaow at lunch, when $6.95 would get you a special that included soup, egg rolls and wontons, plus entree. We had a Thai beef salad and a pork curry and both were delightful -- though no more so than the decor, in which the prodigious use of wood and flowers has helped the restaurant transcend its strip-center location. (11/13/09)

Overall: B $

THE STERLING BRUNCH

Bally's Steakhouse, Bally's, 3645 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 967-7999

We thought the food at the venerable Sterling Brunch was as good as ever but were more than a little turned off by the clumsily engineered seating system differentiating high-rollers from those who are not. But if you like roasted half-lobsters, lobster bisque, pepper-and-mint-crusted rack of lamb, desserts, salads, fruits and pastries, you'll likely feel right at home. (5/8/09)

Overall: A if you're a high roller, B- if you're not $$$$