HEIDI’S PICKS

Heidi's Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.

GOLDEN STEER STEAK HOUSE

308 W. Sahara Ave.; 384-4470

This icon of Old Las Vegas turned 50 in 2008 but hasn't faded a bit, with red-leather U-shaped booths and other decor clearly refreshed without losing any of its period charm. We stuck to the classics with a gin martini, shrimp cocktail, tomato salad, cream of corn, Chicken of the Angels, filet mignon and tableside Cherries Jubilee and were pleased with it all. (1/25/08)

Overall: A- $$$$

OFF THE STRIP

10670 Southern Highlands Parkway; 202-2448

We were a little dubious when a reader told us that Off the Strip had really good homemade meatloaf for $10 but sure enough they did, and we liked everything else about the place as well. That would include an appetizer special of thinly sliced beef rolled around asparagus, rigatoni Bolognese with a meatball, and the oh-please-I-can't-stand-it homemade cheesecake. Oh, and especially the service. (10/16/09)

Overall: A $$

PANNA THAI

6015 S. Fort Apache Road; 823-2345

We were a little wary of the pineapple curry with pork since it's so easy to go overly sweet with a dish like that but we needn't have worried, as the fruit was offset by tomato chunks and a substantial kick in the coconut-and-red-curry-based sauce. We also liked the meltingly tender garlic short ribs and the beef Sa-Te (also known as satay), and the soothing, neutral-colored atmosphere that helps this neighborhood restaurant feel like anything but. (9/12/08)

Overall: A- $$

SWITCH

Encore, 3131 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 248-3463

The unique interiors of this restaurant -- yes, interiors in the plural, because the walls and ceilings periodically switch among three permutations, which is very cool -- are spectacular, but don't overshadow superlative food and flawless service. We happily recommend the risotto with champagne and Parmesan, oysters on the half shell (three from the West, three from the East), seared Arctic char, organic free-range chicken, gratin Dauphinois, creamed spinach and chocolate crunch bar. (4/10/09)

Overall: A $$$$