HEIDI’S PICKS

Heidi's Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.

MANTRA MASALA

8530 W. Warm Springs Road; 598-3663

Mantra Masala bills its food as healthy without making any specific claims of that nature but a clear avoidance of excess fat is an obvious good start. A plus is that unlike much "healthful" food, Indian cuisine -- especially as executed by Mantra Masala -- is inherently flavorful. We loved the sweet, sweet Mussels Masala and greatly enjoyed the simple vegetable samosas, garlic nan, lamb korma and chicken mantra. (11/7/08)

Overall: A- $$

PIERO'S ITALIAN CUISINE

355 Convention Center Drive; 369-2305

Piero's has many of the trappings of a conventionaire/tourist-centric restaurant-- the location close to the convention center, the high prices, the multitude of tables for large parties-- but much about it doesn't feel touristy, and that would include the quality of the food and service. We were extremely pleased with the roasted artichoke, Saltimbocca alla Romana, Fettucine A Modo Mido -- fresh fettucine with broccoli, mushrooms and pancetta, to you and us -- and a creamy, not overly sweet tiramisu infused with a striking coffee flavor. (9/11/09)

Overall: A $$$$

SIMON RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

Palms Place, 4381 W. Flamingo Road; 944-3292

There's a definite whimsical air about Simon Restaurant & Lounge -- witness the cotton candy and Rice Krispie treats -- but the kitchen knows when it's time to be serious, too. That's evidenced by the various surprises hidden in the menu, such as the shredded-apple and celery-leaf "slaw" with the Crispy Rock Shrimp and decidedly citrus notes of the braised shortribs. Also worthy of note: classic steak tartare and Grouper Casino, with the flavors (and clams) of the classic Clams Casino. (6/5/09)

Overall: A- $$$$

SUSHIWA

790 Coronado Center Drive, Henderson; 263-5785

What we think of as second-generation sushi places -- those that borrow from other culinary traditions for innovative sushi that's particularly appealing to Americans -- are extremely popular, which means they tend to be extremely crowded. Not so with Sushiwa, which hasn't been discovered. Yet. We loved the Henderson Roll, Banzai Roll, the whole-avocado Pocky Roll, a shrimp tempura roll -- even a Korean barbecue sushi roll. (7/6/07)

Overall: A $$$