HEIDI’S PICKS

Heidi's Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.

ESPEE'S GOURMET TAMALES

4275 S. Durango Drive; 492-1400

We really liked the atmosphere and service -- and most of the food -- at Espee's, but we just wish a place that promised "gourmet tamales" offered some more exotic offerings. That said, we enjoyed the quesadilla, puffy taco, chile relleno, pork tamale and even the turkey tamale, with some reservations on the latter. Oh, and we loved the mango salsa with our chips. (2/27/09)

Overall: B $$

HUGO'S CELLAR

Four Queens, 202 Fremont St.; 385-4011

A dip in service after a change in ownership a few years back has been reversed, we're happy to say, and Hugo's Cellar has returned to its rightful place as the downtown spot that best perpetuates all that was good about Old Las Vegas. The Hot Rock Specialty is a long tradition that was even better than we remembered (the stone seasoned with chopped shallots and used to cook fish, beef, chicken and shrimp) and we liked the Duckling Anise Flambe and the classic Veal Oscar. Oh, and one of the best things about Hugo's -- the tableside salad cart. (2/13/09)

Overall: A $$$$

PRIMARILY PRIME RIB

South Point, 9777 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 797-8075

The food at Primarily Prime Rib is pretty decent but the water is awful. Just awful. That said, our shrimp cocktail had five large, succulent shrimp, off-the-boat fresh and just firm enough; onion rings were crisp and sweet; a South Point cut of prime rib was decently flavored and reasonably priced and although we thought a blackened Cajun-style prime rib a little too tame, that's much better than being a little too wild. (7/18/08)

Overall: B $$

RED SQUARE

Mandalay Bay, 3950 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 632-7407

Red Square isn't exactly authentic -- though, to be fair, an authentic Russian restaurant would be a tough sell on the Strip -- but it's gorgeous inside and a lot of fun and serves good food to boot. Particularly worthy of note: the grilled Caesar salad, steak tartare, chicken Kiev, Adzhika Pork and Strawberries Romanoff. (7/20/07)

Overall: B $$$