Petra balances flavors while putting own spin on classic Greek dishes

The moussaka I had at Petra: A Greek Taverna was unlike any moussaka I've ever had in my life. Which is a good thing.

Not that I'm bagging on classic moussaka. Well prepared, this Greek mainstay is a skillful layering of flavors and textures, the very demonstration of why a classic becomes one.

But think about it in musical terms: If a truly gifted singer is performing a cover of a classic song, we expect him or her to add some interest for us in the form of their own personal touch, no? And let's face it, some versions of moussaka are a little pitchy.

So back to Petra's moussaka ($18), which appeared unique from the first glance. It was a precisely cut, firmly stacked, straight-sided rectangle. The bechamel sauce that customarily makes up the top layer was somewhat firm and extremely light, almost soufflelike. Beneath it were layers of firm potato slices, beef and lamb, seasoned with thyme and all very much in balance. It may not be the moussaka your neighbor Mrs. Dimitroulakos used to make, but it's an excellent variation.

The moussaka came with a side salad, a nicely varied assortment of greens with some olives, a couple of big cubes of feta and a well-balanced oil-and-vinegar dressing.

Innovation is clearly a priority in the Petra kitchen (which, again, is a good thing). Zucchini drops ($8), a great way to start dinner, were lightly crisped orbs of shredded zucchini mixed with feta and herbs, moist in the middle and served atop the creamiest tzatziki we've ever encountered, a particular joy to the cucumber-hater among us.

And while we didn't even try to pronounce the Kokinisto Me Manestra ($28) and sure as heck couldn't translate it, we knew from the menu description that it was a braised lamb shank, which seemed enough to recommend it. It more than met our expectations, the meat meltingly tender, its fairly assertive flavor nicely balanced by a generous bed of orzo tossed with mizithra cheese.

So, balance in all things seems to be Petra's mantra. That extended to the decor, which is darkly contemporary with traditional accents of stone and plaster. It was comfortable and cozy on a chilly evening, but I found myself looking longingly at the patio area and thinking of pleasant spring evenings ahead.

Service wasn't so balanced -- or at least our server seemed slightly unbalanced, which she freely admitted with an apology. Fair enough. She was pleasant and friendly, and the lapses were both infrequent and quickly recognized.

I'd say Petra resembles Mrs. Dimitroulakos' idea of a Greek restaurant about as much as Tivoli Village resembles a 19th-century Danish public garden. But in both cases, that's a very good thing.

Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at 383-0474 or email her at hrinella@ reviewjournal.com.