Serendipity 3, offering more than just desserts, pleases palate from salad to sundae

"So, do they taste like dirt?" came the voice across the table.

"Dirt?"

"Well, earth. And sunshine. And fresh air."

Ah, yes. Heirloom tomatoes do indeed taste of the earth, and sunshine and fresh air, which is why they're so much better than the supermarket-softball variety.

I've gotten used to the blast-of-summers-past quality of heirloom tomatoes and get them at restaurants and supermarkets as often as possible. Still, I was a little surprised to see them on the menu at Serendipity 3.

Why? Well, maybe because Serendipity 3 (an offshoot of the New York original that opened in 1954) is a burgers-ice-cream-and-fruity-drinks kind of place. It's a less-expensive alternative for tourist families during the day, a hipster hangout later. The big bachelorette party seated near us, all Spandex and spangles, seemed to bridge the two groups.

But there were the heirloom tomatoes, offered as an entree salad ($17). And with burrata to boot.

If you're not familiar with burrata, it's a ball-shaped shell of mozzarella cheese with mozzarella and cream in the middle, which are inserted during the cheesemaking process. It's exquisite when used correctly, which it was in this case. The multihued tomatoes had been cut into forkable pieces, with slivered basil and toasted Marcona almonds sprinkled across. The burrata, which the menu accurately called "wet and delicious," was perched atop, and with a creamy but light herbed vinaigrette swirled around the tomatoes, it was a perfect entree for a sultry summer night.

I was actually a little surprised I could do it much justice, since I'd merrily dug into our crab-artichoke-dip appetizer ($12). These dips are neither new nor novel, but this one was notable for the very generous use of lump crabmeat, and for the wedges of toasted ciabatta served with it, which were sturdy enough to support the dip but not so hard as to overwhelm it. And the dip-to-scooper ratio, which for some reason is a problem for restaurants to get right, was darn near spot-on.

Toasting and balance also elevated the BBQ and Blue Burger ($16.50) -- the toasting of the bun, the balance of the bacon, blue cheese and barbecue sauce atop the beef burger (chicken is another option). Steak fries, coleslaw and sweet-potato fries are offered; we chose the latter and were quite happy with them.

And we couldn't forgo dessert, in a place that's famous for its Frrrozen Hot Chocolate. Actually, we demurred on that, just couldn't seem to do it. Maybe it was reading the list of varieties, with strawberry, Oreo and peanut butter, among others. At any rate, it just seemed like too much chocolate, and the evening was too steamy, frrrozen or not. Instead we dug into a Drug Store Sundae, the Black and White, with its chocolate and vanilla ice creams, and white and regular fudge. It was pretty good -- and massive -- but mostly just sweet.

Service throughout was OK, although the place was packed and things were slightly long in coming. It's on a piece of prime real estate in front of Caesars Palace and is surrounded by attractive terraces, although the interior is a bit more ice-cream-shop basic.

Serendipity 3 has attracted a following in Las Vegas, many of whom return time and again for the desserts. But if you go, I wouldn't worry too much about saving room, because the earlier courses acquit themselves just fine.

Las Vegas Review-Journal reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at 383-0474 or email her at hrinella@ reviewjournal.com.