Sonoma Cellar is affordable but doesn’t skimp on setting or service

Maybe it’s the old rebel in me, but I have an inherent appreciation for a restaurant that bucks trends. Sunset Station’s Sonoma Cellar these days is bucking not one but two.

The first is the trend toward steakhouse prices that are affordable for most of us only if we’re willing to skip the month’s mortgage payment. (Yes, I know beef prices, like many across the industry, are way up; I also know only 1 to 2 percent of beef is graded prime in this country in a given year, and marvel at the fact that it apparently all ends up in Southern Nevada steakhouses.) There was a lot of deep discounting going on back when the recession had its teeth sunk into us most deeply. But since then, most have returned to their old levels; a minority that includes Sonoma Cellar have not. We’re not talking a major bargain here, but comparatively speaking …

The other trend, of which I’ve written frequently, is the riptide-like sweep toward the casual, in restaurants as in the rest of life. Old-style “gourmet rooms” have become almost as rare as a PETA member who defends foie gras, and counter service, accompanied by minimalist (and sometimes just minimal) decor, is the thing.

Sonoma Cellar bucks the second one in that it’s pretty fancy-schmancy, especially for a locals casino. It’s right off the casino, but a deep entry area gives it a tucked-away feeling, and the decor brings lots of soaring arches, thick upholstery and well-considered lighting. The color palette is primarily ivory-neutral with gold accents, like the gold charger plates that are swept away almost as soon as one is seated. (And what’s up with that? Do they really lose that many? And if so, if you’re going to take them away so swiftly, why bother? But I digress.)

The menu, too, carries a lot of the graciousness of these old-style rooms. We thought about starting out old school with the shrimp cocktail or oysters Rockefeller, but the bacon-wrapped shrimp ($12), with their promise of Dijon marmalade and fried onions, were just too tempting. And we were glad we headed in that direction, because these turned out to be large shrimp, sometimes called prawns, wrapped in thick bacon and cooked just enough, the salty, assertive bacon and sweetish, crisp onions filling in textures and flavors to complete the picture nicely.

We did go old school, though, with a petite filet ($29), which really did feel like a bargain, considering what we’ve seen when we look around. Despite the fact that it wasn’t listed among the prime, 28-day aged steaks on the menu, this steak, prepared rare as ordered, had decent flavor for a cut that’s generally not the most flavorful, and the buttery tenderness that has ensured its popularity. Bearnaise on the side was prominently flavored with tarragon, so all was right.

That was the case, as well, with the thick veal chop ($38), this time medium-rare. We didn’t ask for any sauces with this one (there’s no charge, but you have to ask), but our very professional waiter brought us his suggested garlic-cilantro, and it complimented the neutral veal quite nicely.

Service for the most part was very good, showing some minor cracks only when our waiter asked where we were from and professed disbelief that we were locals. We know times have been tough, but we find it hard to believe that Sonoma Cellar doesn’t see a lot of our neighbors. In this era of gouge ’em or churn ’em out, it’s a refreshing taste of a more gracious time — even if that time was only a few years ago.

Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Email Heidi Knapp Rinella at hrinella@reviewjournal.com. Find more of her stories at www.reviewjournal.com, and follow @HKRinella on Twitter.