Tasty sandwiches, reasonable prices make Baguette Cafe excursion worth effort

"I wish this place were more convenient," my friend said as she bent over her sandwich.

"Well," I said, pointing. "It is if you work over there."

"Over there" is an office park, both tall and sprawling, and -- somewhat of a rarity in Las Vegas these days -- all of its offices seem to be occupied. And as we considered our exchange, we decided we were at least a little envious of the people who work in those offices, mainly because of their proximity to The Baguette Cafe.

The Baguette Cafe is one of the best-kept secrets in town, pretty well hidden from view unless you venture to the back of that office park on Sunset Road, northwest of the interchange of the Las Vegas Beltway and Buffalo Drive. The excursion is well worth the effort, however, for what you'll find in this weekdays-only storefront.

That would, appropriately enough, start with the baguettes, on which most of the sandwiches at The Baguette Cafe are served (ciabatta and whole-wheat wraps are other choices, but trust me on this one). Rumor is they're baked in-house, but wherever they're created they're crusty and light, a perfect vehicle for any number of sandwich fillings.

For me, that would be turkey ($5.95), which might sound a bit boring until you consider that this is indeed real turkey and not the chopped-and-formed stuff, thickly sliced. It had the requisite tomato, a slice of Swiss cheese with real depth and a mustard spread that was way better than Grey Poupon, but what really made it stand out was the tangle of caramelized onions, soft, sweet and tangy, that topped it in great profusion.

And, even though this was only $5.95 -- a price that would make the sub-shop chains proud -- it also was served with a small pile of mixed lettuce, topped with a slightly creamy, very balsamicky (that's a good thing) vinaigrette. The salad made the sandwich a meal, and the price certainly was right.

I was happy as a clam, but my friend did even better. The Pick Two also is $5.95, and it applies to the regular menu and the specials du jour, which on this day included the Blue Brie, also served on a baguette with chicken, apple slices and walnuts. It was a festival of textures and flavors, but even it was surpassed by her cup of gazpacho, topped with a basil-flecked cream. I'm not a big fan of gazpacho. This was very good gazpacho.

We weren't, however, about to pass up dessert. A cup of tiramisu ($3.55) was rich and light at the same time and clearly conveyed the characteristic flavors of coffee, chocolate and mascarpone, and textures both cakey and creamy. My friend won this one again, though, with an exceptional wedge of pear tart. The pear slices were tender but still crisp, but what truly made it special was the perfectly executed eggy custard that enfolded them.

The Baguette Cafe is a counter-service place, and there were some counter-service slipups, most notably a forgotten glass of water. But our lunches were served to our outdoor table by a very likable young server. And the legendary young Olivier who presides at the cafe does much to refute the image of French hauteur, greeting customers warmly and even bringing a cup of water to a precious little dog on the patio.

Yes, The Baguette Cafe unfortunately is not convenient to those of us who work in or close to downtown Las Vegas. But I have a feeling I'll be finding my way there again.

But maybe next time I'll let my friend order for us both.

Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at 383-0474 or email her at hrinella@ reviewjournal.com.