Beautiful Lincoln County offers visitors history, scenary

Many Nevadans never experience their state beyond the limits of its major population centers. They miss the magnificent mountains and valleys, the picturesque rural communities and the interesting folk that populate the Silver State in what natives consider the "real" Nevada. A short trip into scenic, historic Lincoln County introduces new visitors to a Nevada they never knew existed.

Located just north of Clark County, Lincoln County's roots lie in agriculture and mining. U.S. 93 accesses most of the county's pioneer-era towns and passes close to many of its recreational attractions. Drive north on Interstate 15 about 20 miles from Las Vegas to the U.S. 93 exit and head for Alamo.

About 80 miles from Las Vegas at a junction just north of Alamo, take the right hand fork to continue on U.S. 93. At the railroad center of Caliente, 150 miles from Las Vegas, the highway drops down into Meadow Valley Wash, scene of early settlement and subsequent mining booms. Continue north about 25 miles to reach old towns like Panaca and Pioche and to access roads to several state parks, including Cathedral Gorge.

Meadow Valley Wash early drew the attention of Mormon settlers fanning out across territory that later became Utah and neighboring states. They scouted the possibilities of these regions for establishing communities, eventually creating more than 300 settlements in the West. Meadow Valley Wash with ample water, arable land and nearby mineral deposits offered good prospects. Mormons colonized several areas in Lincoln County, including Alamo, Panaca and Ursine.

The second oldest town in Nevada after Genoa near Carson City, Panaca lies 16 miles north of Caliente. Look for its shady streets and venerable houses a couple of miles off U.S. 93 on Highway 319, a major connection to Cedar City, Utah, about an hour's drive away. Mormons established this agricultural center in the spring of 1864, naming it after a Paiute word for metal or wealth. Earlier that year, natives led Mormon missionary William Hamblin to silver ore ledges in the vicinity that sparked interest when samples arrived in Salt Lake City. Discoveries led to mining booms that spawned towns like nearby Pioche.

Pick up the brochure distributed at information stations called "Lincoln County Driving and Walking Tours" for specific information on old buildings still standing in Panaca. Earliest homes consisted of primitive dugouts, rock-walled rooms roofed with brush or small adobe structures, a few of which still survive. Sturdier dwellings of lumber and brick later replaced them, including several Victorian-styled homes. They lend Panaca the quaint charm of yesteryear.

Laid out in typical early Mormon fashion, Panaca's wide streets form a neat, tree-lined grid. Lots large enough to contain a house, outbuildings, garden and orchard followed a plan decided by church officials. They strove to create self-sustaining Mormon communities on the frontier and to establish industries exploiting nearby natural resources. The industrious pioneers of Panaca soon raised food crops and livestock, built roads, quarried stone, cut timber, milled lumber and mined and milled ore.

Back on U.S. 93, drive another mile north to reach the road to a regional interagency information center and access to Cathedral Gorge State Park, one of Nevada's oldest parks. Stop there for information on area attractions and to tour exhibits. Another nearby turnoff from U.S. 93 leads to overview at Miller Point.

Proceed to the developed area of the park which remains open all year. Expect to pay a small entrance fee and a fee for overnight use. Picnic areas and campsites are available on a first-come basis. Trails lead hikers into the unexpected beauty of the eroded clay formations carved from a prehistoric lakebed. Wind and water sculpt the formations into canyons, grottos and spires. Rangers schedule informative programs and hikes for visitors on weekends.

Long before it became a park in 1935, Cathedral Gorge attracted visitors. Evidence points to seasonal visits by native people thousands of years ago. In pioneer times, people from the little communities of Meadow Valley journeyed to Cathedral Gorge for picnics, theatricals and other gatherings.

Margo Bartlett Pesek's column appears Sundays.