Fortification Hill, Devil’s Paint Pots good cool-season destinations

Flat-topped Fortification Hill dominates the landscape on the Arizona shore of Lake Mead above Hoover Dam. Visible from higher elevations around Las Vegas, the landmark rises dark and distinctive above an area of colorful mounded hills known as the Devil's Paint Pots, or simply the Paint Pots. This varicolored region reflects its pastel shades in the mirror of lake water on still days.

The Devil's Paint Pots make a good cool-season destination for a picnic, hike, back country exploration or an overnight stay near the water. The area lies about 40 miles from Las Vegas, easily accessible on short winter days. Reach the Paint Pots on an unpaved side road or by boat.

To drive to the Devil's Paint Pots, follow U.S. 93 toward Hoover Dam. Stop at Lake Mead National Recreation Area's Alan Bible Visitor Center between Boulder City and the dam to pick up back country maps and hiking route descriptions. Detailed topographical maps for sale there prove worth the expense for serious hikers and those exploring primitive side roads. Keep in mind that off-road exploration is prohibited anywhere in Lake Mead National Recreation Area.

Continue across the dam into Arizona. About two and one-half miles from the dam, watch for a turnoff on the left, the north side of U.S. 93, onto the Kingman Wash Road. This graded road covers four winding miles on the way to the lake shore. Drive slowly and enjoy the colors of the mineralized, pastel-colored desert before reaching the beach area at the mouth of the major wash, more exposed now by the lake's historically low water. Boaters often head for the Paint Pots, anchoring off-shore in Painter's Cove or pulling small boats up to the gravel ramp.

The Paint Pots remain a popular, undeveloped picnicking and camping area. Do not expect the amenities found in major campgrounds at formal camping areas around he lake. You might find a primitive toilet where the side road meets the major wash near the cove. Rock-enclosed fire pits constructed by previous visitors for cooking on bonfires mark informal campsites. Sometimes they leave extra firewood for those who follow to use, but don't count on it.

Expect to "rough it" and plan accordingly. Bring everything you need from home, including firewood, drinking water and garbage bags. If you must use lake water, boil it or otherwise treat it to make it safe for camp use. Before you leave, police the beach for refuse for disposal at home, even if it is not yours. This thoughtful outdoor practice keeps the area safe and attractive for others to visit.

Visitors enjoy lovely views of lake and mountains, particularly on calm days when lake reflections double the scenic appeal. Boats cutting across the water drag wakes that lap gently at the shore minutes after their passing. At night the nearby city's glare backlights the mountains, lights along the lake shore send long reflections across the water and overhead the stars glitter icily.

Mainly visitors to the Paint Pots region just bask on the beach, while others explore the nearby shoreline. Hiking appeals to more energetic and adventurous visitors. A walk up the wash provides more colorful views, opportunities to discover footprints in sandy spots and observation of changing plant communities in different locales. Ambitious hikers find the trail to the top of 3,700-foot Fortification Hill both challenging and rewarding, as the views from the dark mesa in all directions make the climb worth every step.

National Park Service rangers often include Fortification Hill on hikes planned for the season from November through March. High temperatures the rest of the year make the hike uncomfortable and even unsafe. Rangers guiding this six-mile round-trip trek rate it as strenuous, although some local hiking experts regard it as a moderate hike. If you want to join a ranger-led hike, check with the visitor center at 298-8990 for upcoming outings and reserve your place in advance. If you hike it on your own, do not overestimate your own abilities.

Some locally focused hiking books such as Branch Whitney's guide, "Hiking Southern Nevada," outline the climb to the top of Fortification Hill. The road to the trailhead follows Kingman Wash east of Painter's Cove. The trail heads up a wash and ridge to take hikers to steep switchbacks leading to the top.

Margo Bartlett Pesek's column appears on Sundays.