Franktown Loop allows visitors to explore history, scenery

Nevadans exploring their own state find glimpses of history, recreation potential and scenery along the Franktown Loop, on fascinating side roads off U.S. 395 between Reno and Carson City. The route skirts the forested Sierra Nevada foothills west of Washoe Lake through the ranchlands of Washoe Valley. Nevada's first millionaires built Bower's Mansion within sight of the lake. The fabulous Comstock-era house is now part of a Washoe County park, one of two regional parks along the Franktown Loop.

Part of the loop used to be U.S. 395, before the artery between the two cities was shortened, widened and moved closer to the lake. To access the Franktown Loop, drive south from Reno on U.S. 395 about 10 miles into Washoe Valley. Watch for the turnoff onto Highway 429 and signs for Davis Creek Park and Bowers Mansion.

Davis Creek Regional Park draws picnickers, campers, fishermen and hikers to a beautiful setting. Locally popular, the year-round park fills up rapidly on weekends and holidays. Available on a first-come basis, its two campsites occupy two pine-shaded sections. Although there are no hookups, 19 of the sites accommodate recreational vehicles. Campers find running water, showers and flush toilets. Anglers with Nevada licenses fish the creek and the pond, a popular spot for winter ice skating. Hikers follow the Ophir Creek Trail from the park up into the mountains where it ties into the trail network around Lake Tahoe. Expect to pay modest entrance and camping fees at Davis Creek Regional Park.

Continue on Highway 429 to reach Bowers Mansion Regional Park, which may be visited free of charge all year. Although the mansion remains closed for earthquake retrofitting and the warm spring-fed swimming pool fell victim this year to budget shortfalls, the park still draws visitors to its family barbecue and picnic sites, playgrounds, large group pavilions, horseshoe pits, walking trails and hiking trailheads. Group sites attract crowds, particularly on weekends, for gatherings such as the Northern Nevada Bluegrass Association's annual festival just finishing up.

Take time to stroll the shady grounds around the grand 1864 house and promise yourself a return when the mansion reopens for tours. From the outside, visitors get a feel for the craftsmanship employed by Scottish stonemasons when the house was constructed 146 years ago. The carefully fitted stone walls required little mortar. Deeply recessed windows have frames so slanted that the slashing storms from the Sierras cannot drive rain or snow beneath the sashes. Restoration removed an ill-conceived third floor pictured in some old photos. A surviving original, the impressive fountain in front of the house still leads the eye toward the lake, which used to lie much closer to the house and grounds. Check with Washoe County Parks and Recreation Department at (775) 823-6500 for the tour schedule and ticket fees when the house reopens.

Guides well-versed in the mansion's history sketch the lives of the home's first owners, Lemuel "Sandy" Bowers and his wife, Eilley Orrum Bowers, whose mining claim near Gold Hill in the Comstock Lode country across the valley yielded a fortune in silver. Guides explain that the carefully restored and refurnished rooms reflect the elegance of the era, but few of the furnishings are original. The fine household items the Nevada couple bought on a lavish spending spree in Europe did not survive Eilley's failing fortunes after husband Sandy died in 1867 and their mining ventures yielded diminishing returns. The furnishings were sold at auction, and eventually Eilley lost her house.

After many years, little remained inside but the Nevada silver door hardware and beautiful fireplace mantles. The house's restored elegance results from the dedication and donations of many history-conscious people working to save the mansion. Acquired by the county in the late 1940s, the mansion required years of hard work before it was opened for tours in the late 1960s.

Beyond the mansion, continue on Highway 429 to return to U.S. 395, or use Franktown Road, Highway 877. It offers a short scenic option past old ranches and fine homes hidden away in the forest fringes before returning to U.S. 395.

Margo Bartlett Pesek's column appears on Sundays.