Grand Canyon National Park just as relaxing in the winter

Grand Canyon National Park's splendid scenery lures visitors all year, but the greatest numbers still arrive during the traditional summer vacation season. During summer, visitors throng the trails, crowd the viewpoints, reserve most of the camping sites and create lines for services, especially at the South Rim. Better-known and more easily accessible than the higher North Rim, the South Rim stays open year-round, while the North Rim closes in winter.

Southern Nevadans heading for Arizona to visit the Grand Canyon off-season usually arrive in their own vehicles, using U.S. 93, Interstate 40 and Highway 64. The 300-mile drive to the South Rim from Las Vegas takes about six hours, barring extremely inclement weather. Some drive as far as Williams, Ariz., and take the scenic Grand Canyon Railroad to the rim, which involves an overnight stay in Williams. Various combinations of rail trip and lodgings are worth exploring.

Entering the park costs $25 per vehicle, a fee waived for park pass holders. Once at the rim, visitors park their vehicles and ride the convenient free shuttle buses that run year-round to various attractions and points of interest near Grand Canyon Village. Shuttles run through November to rim sites along the scenic Hermit Road. From the end of November to March 1, visitors use their own transportation on that route.

Visitors who arrive at the park during off-season months enjoy entirely different experiences than those arriving at the height of the summer season. Everything is less crowded. Visitors stroll to the viewpoints for look-sees and photos without jostling for spaces at the railings. They walk the rim trails at their own pace without fear of being trod upon in a throng.

Except during cool-season holidays, visitors find greater availability of rooms in the six lodges and hotels at the South Rim operated by park service concessionaire Xanterra Parks. Make reservations for accommodations by calling toll-free (888) 297-2757.

Visitors enjoying meals in the grand dining rooms in El Tovar Hotel or Bright Angel Lodge still need to reserve seating, but there will be more options. The special holiday fare offered in the dining rooms at the South Rim, as well as cheerful seasonal decorations throughout the hostelries, draw return visitors.

Off-season visitors do not need reservations for campsites at Mather Campground at the South Rim. From the end of November until March 1, campsites are available on a first-come basis, and the camping fees are $15 instead of the $18 charged summer campers. Since this campground has only pull-through and tent sites with no hookups, many users of recreational vehicles opt to stay in the adjacent RV park. Make arrangements with Xanterra Parks.

The weather will be much cooler than in summer, but generally balmy through autumn. Winter brings snow to the South Rim. Savvy off-season visitors dress in warm layers, cover heads and hands and wear sturdy, weatherproof footgear. Grand Canyon becomes a different place when frosted with snow. If the idea of being outside in it does not appeal, there are plenty of cozy hangouts in the lodges with views over the canyon that offer relaxing libations and warmth from crackling fireplaces.

The off-season remains a favorite with hikers taking trails from the South Rim into the depths of the canyon. In summer, the heat in the canyon is something to be considered because of the 5,000-foot change in elevation from the rim to the Colorado River. When summer daytime temperatures at the South Rim remain quite bearable, temperatures at the bottom of the canyon are equivalent to those on the Sonoran Desert.

The off-season brings milder temperatures to the depths even if there is snow at the rim. Outdoor activities in the cooler months mean being prepared for extremes.

Off-season visitors enjoy most of the activities they would during a summer visit. For instance, bike rentals -- new to the park this year -- will be offered year-round. The mule rides are not available during the off-season, however. Time now for them to rest up for next season's mule-back adventures at Grand Canyon.

Margo Bartlett Pesek's column appears on Sundays.