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Champagne Taittinger Brut La Francaise and Francois Montand Blanc de Blancs Brut

Wine: Champagne Taittinger Brut La Francaise.

Grapes: Pinot noir (60 percent), chardonnay (40 percent)

Region: Reims, Champagne, France

Vintage: Nonvintage

Price: $37.99

In the glass: Taittinger Champagne is a bright citrine-yellow color with a clean, clear appearance showing quite a bit of microbubbles in effervescence from the core going out into a glass-clear rim definition with light to medium viscosity.

On the nose: It is classic at first with a plethora of mixed white fruits, dominated by red apple slices, crushed red currants, freshly baked pastry, freshly mowed straw, nuttiness like walnuts with shells, and finally leavened dough over chalky minerals.

On the palate: It is full of a lively mousse and nicely creamy in texture, before revealing the fresh and zippy character of the fruit and the nuts, almond biscotti, some yeast residue rather than fresh dough, which is again classic for Champagne, and then lovely balance between white fruit and acidity right through to the lingering finish. It is a smooth and excellent Champagne.

Wine: Francois Montand Blanc de Blancs Brut

Grape: Chardonnay

Region: Gascogne, Southwest France

Vintage: Nonvintage

Price: $7.99

In the glass: Francois Montand is a light golden yellow color with a clear and clean appearance, showing a more aggressive effervescence with a healthy foam as it is poured and a fine glass-clear meniscus with medium viscosity.

On the nose: There is a lovely melange of nutty characteristics intermingled with soft white fruits, winter melon, pomelo, green pears and apricot with hints of orange blossom and minerality.

On the palate: It is a supple yet powerful pleaser of a bubbly made just like Champagne, but with a lot less aging on the lees, and it materializes in the slightly less complex flavors dominated by crushed brazil nuts, apple cobbler, white currants and good harmonious balance between the acidity and the fruit, showing a good kick of minerals on the finish, like a good Apollinaris water would. It is suave and a great value.

Odds and ends: In this 14th annual bubbles column, I have again selected a couple of different choices for the holiday and year-end weekends. I have been fortunate enough to taste and drink a lot of Champagne in particular this year. Although prices have gone through the roof, it is such a good drink for any occasion that it is hard to fault the producers, especially considering the laborious and time-consuming process it takes to produce this "nectar of the gods."

A few years ago, Champagne producers complained of a waning market in the United States and United Kingdom in particular and told everyone they were overstocked. Now, three to four years later, they are suddenly running out of stock. Production is way down because of the climate and therefore prices have to increase. Most Champagne brands now retail for well more than $50. Fortunately, there are still deals and I believe that I have found just the right ones for you.

While Champagne Taittinger is one of the most famous houses in Reims, which is the headquarters for all Champagne and home to one of the world's most famous cathedrals, the House of Francois Montand in the Gascogne region of southwestern France is almost entirely unknown.

That is the beauty of the U.S. wine market: We have access to pretty much everything and at prices that are often the best in the world. Taittinger's Brut La Francaise is a delicious quaffing Champagne and now available for less than $38 at all Lee's Discount Liquor stores.

Francois Montand is made in the methode traditionelle style, which is like classic Champagne but from outside the region, and is available at a ridiculous price at Costco. It looks classy, is incredibly tasty and can easily hang with its much more expensive cousins from Champagne.

They are both great representatives of Champagne and sparkling wine. Whether you choose one or both, you'll have a very merry time indeed. Remember to chill them to about 40 degrees Fahrenheit before drinking. Serve them in white wine glasses, rather than Champagne flutes, for maximum enjoyment. Happy holidays.

Gil Lempert-Schwarz's wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O. Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89106-0749, or email him at gil@winevegas.com.

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