Italian food the real deal at Pips Cocina and Wine Bar

Every Italian restaurateur calls his cuisine authentic.

But when Rino Armeni says Pips Cocina and Wine Bar serves real Italian food, you tend to believe him. That is, if you can understand his Italian accent.

"Talk about accent, he can't get rid of his," jokes executive chef Gerald Chin. "Sometimes on the phone I can't understand him."

But when it comes to Italian food, Armeni communicates clearly. Working off of 56 recipes given to him by his mother -- who still lives in Rome -- Armeni opened Pips at Aliante Station in November with the goal of giving diners authentic Italian food at an affordable price.

"There's a lot of Italian-American food that gets bastardized," says Chin, who can be found in Pips' kitchen six nights a week. "(Armeni) kind of gets upset when he sees things being bastardized."

Chicken Parmesan and chicken marsala are about the only Italian-American dishes you will find on the menu, Chin says. The rest consists of authentic recipes prepared with what Chin calls his "youthful twist," such as the fried and fresh pasta served with cherry tomato sauce ($14). Chin fries half of the pasta and serves it with traditional fresh pasta, giving the dish a textural contrast.

Since Armeni's background is in wine, it's no surprise that the wine list is dominated by Italian wines that customers can afford, Chin says. Prices per glass range from $2 to $13.

The upscale casual restaurant has a modern design and seats 180.

Reservations are required on weekends and recommended during the week. Hours are from 5 to 10 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays; 5 to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. The lounge is open until 1 a.m.

Specialties: Gnocchi with blue cheese sauce, $15; meatball sliders stuffed with mozzarella, $19; Italian meatloaf stuffed with mozzarella, capers and mortadella, $20

Appetizers: Calamari with fresh herbs, $11; arancini, a breaded rice ball filled with mozzarella and meat, $10; fondue for two, $19

Soups and salads: Field greens with cucumbers, cherry tomatoes and balsamic vinaigrette, $8; Pips chopped salad, $11; soup of the day, $7

Entrees: Ravioli filled with braised beef short ribs, $17; speciale, spaghetti tossed with baby meatballs and Parmesan, $16; bistecca, grilled Wagu strip steak, $35

Desserts: Tiramisu, $7; lemon tart, $8; Italian cheesecake, $8

Information: 692-7477.