Just One Stop

Elvira Macias and her two small children were relaxing in a booth over a lunch of tacos and soft drinks just before noon one day last week. Afterward, she would be able to walk a few steps and do a little grocery shopping.

That's because Macias was dining in not a restaurant but one of the many Mexican supermarkets in the Las Vegas Valley that have mini-restaurants inside, complete with hot prepared food and places to sit down and eat. She was at Mariana's Supermarket at 3631 W. Sahara Ave., where she said she eats about once a week.

Macias said she always gets tacos, but that doesn't have to be the case. Mariana's La Cocina ("kitchen"), or deli, also offered a combo plate with one or two entrees, plus rice, beans, pico de gallo and tortillas for $5.99, or a similar plate with three entrees for $6.99. Plus fish tacos, quesadillas, tamales, and tacos and burritos filled with a choice from among six types of meat, as well as a few breakfast dishes, are offered. There's a complimentary salsa bar, and nearby a counter selling ice cream, juices and aquas frescas -- Mexican fruit drinks -- including melon, strawberry and mango, plus horchata, the traditional beverage made with rice and spices.

There are an ever-increasing number of Mexican supermarkets in the valley, many of which offer lunch (or breakfast or dinner) areas. Mariana's, which has four stores, seems to have the most extensive hot-food service, and the West Sahara store has a 16-booth seating area to match.

But on a visit to the King Ranch Markets store at 840 N. Decatur Blvd. the smell of fresh bread baking hung heavy in the air, making lunch all but inevitable. That King Ranch store has just three small booths (the store at 755 N. Nellis Blvd. has several more; King Ranch has three other stores in the valley) but an impressive variety of hot prepared foods, including pork carnitas in a combo for $5.99, or $3.99 a pound; pork ribs in a combo for $5.99, or $6.99 a pound; fried potatoes for $2.99 a pound; meat empanadas for $1.29 each; fried plantains for $1.29 each; a beef and bean chimichanga for $1.49 each; and a special of five small tacos with a 16-ounce drink.

And even the smaller markets offer plenty for hungry shoppers, or just those looking for a bargain meal. The Supermercado del Pueblo at 1000 N. Rancho Drive, one of the older markets in the area, offers seating for 12, plus such lunches as sopes with chicken or grilled meat for $1.25, a combo of three enchiladas with beans and rice for $4.99, a combo of grilled meat with beans and rice for $4.99 and a torta with grilled meat or chicken for $3.49.

Carneceria Guadalajara, 955 W. Craig Road, is a little store with no indoor seating, but there is a cocina and there is a picnic table and a couple of smaller tables with chairs outside. Tortas are $4.99 -- $5.99 for Cuban-style -- burritos $4.99 and chilies rellenos $2.49 each. And while the store doesn't have the truly impressive, extensive array of breads, cakes, pastries and other desserts that are displayed at Mariana's and King Ranch, a case in the front holds caramel-custard flan, for a cold, rich, 99-cent dessert.

The draws of price and convenience are obvious. But so, as it turns out, is the quality of the food. Sisters Angie and Adriana Alvarado stop for lunch at Mariana's about twice a month and once a month, respectively. Angie favors the fish soup or carne asada tacos, Adriana the breakfast foods including menudo and egg burritos. They said they don't usually shop when they come in for lunch, and they travel some distance to get there. The draw for them?

"It's hard," Adriana said, "to find a good Mexican restaurant in Las Vegas."

Contact reporter Heidi Knapp Rinella at hrinella@reviewjournal.com or 702-383-0474.