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Mama Leonie Ristorante follows a family tradition

If Anthony Haddad wanted to keep his mother out of his business, he shouldn't have named it after her.

"She'll snoop around in the kitchen all the time while I'm cooking," says Haddad, the chef and co-owner of Mama Leonie Ristorante, 5875 S. Rainbow Blvd. "She comes here for dinner four or five times a week and checks the pasta.

"She takes the bus all around, she's incredible," Haddad adds about his mother, who is in her 90s.

Haddad serves the same Sicilian recipes cooked years ago by Mom while his Lebanese father, Eduard, worked as a chef at the Beverly Hilton Hotel in Los Angeles.

Anthony Haddad recalls: "We asked Mom: How do you do your meatballs? How do you do your lasagna? How do you do your fettuccine?' "

Haddad and his brother, Omar, opened Mama Leonie in November, on the site of the former Caffe Dolce. They redecorated, but kept some of the traditional Italian elements, including an enclosed garden atrium with a fountain.

"I was out of the business for six years," Anthony Haddad says. "But my brother wanted to get back in and I said, 'OK, this will be fun for Mom.' "

And it is -- although Haddad may have gotten more than he bargained for.

"But if you would meet her, you would love her," he says.

Mama Leonie Ristorante, which seats 110, is open from 5 to 10 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays. Reservations are recommended.

Starters: Calamari fritti misto, $9; pollpette de la casa, $10; bruschetta, $6

Soups/salads: Minestrone soup, $5; mista insalate, $6; classic Caesar, $15

Entrees: Linguini pescatore, $18; pesce cioppino, $32; veal marsalis, $22

Desserts: Tiramisu, $6; cannoli, $6; ricotta cheesecake, $6

Information: 367-6262

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