Pick fruit to expand grill skills

We don’t have to wait for Memorial Day to start grilling in Southern Nevada, where it’s grilling season all year — or at least 10 months out of the year, if December and January are a bit too chilly for most of us. But there’s something about this weekend as the traditional start of summer that will prompt backyard chefs across the valley to fire up their grills in celebration.

A lot of those grills will be filled with burgers and steaks, traditionally the two most popular items for backyard cooking. But you can cook almost anything on your grill, and that certainly includes fruit.

“My feeling is, you’ve got the fire going — especially a charcoal fire — you might as well take advantage of it beyond just that one steak or that chicken,” said Adam Rapoport, editor of Bon Appetit magazine. “Have a little fun with it.”

Rapoport also is editor of the newly released “The Grilling Book: The Definitive Guide From Bon Appetit,” which, like most modern books on grill cooking, lists numerous recipes using fruits. Local chefs also are spending some time putting char marks on fruits, and say that although nearly any fruit can be grilled, some lend themselves to it better than others.

Rapoport and Chris McGonigle, executive chef of Texas Station, said they especially like grilled fresh pineapple. Rapoport suggests cutting it into rounds, maybe ½-inch to ¾-inch thick “so it stays fruity in the middle,” and placing it on the grill without any adornment.

“There’s so much natural sugar, so it caramelizes,” he said. Top with fresh whipped cream or a good-quality vanilla ice cream for a simple dessert.

McGonigle said he likes to marinate shrimp and pineapple chunks for about an hour in rum with some brown sugar and a touch of cinnamon, then grill (you can also baste with the mixture). He and Rapoport also said they like to grill pineapple and use it in a salsa — to serve, McGonigle suggested, with mahi mahi or shrimp or fish tacos.

Rapoport said you also can use any favorite salsa recipe with grilled pineapple instead of tomatoes.

“Tomatoes are a fruit, so you’re just substituting,” he said.

Chef Frank Pellegrino Jr. of Rao’s at Caesars Palace likes to make bananas on a grill pan. He lightly greases the pan with butter or corn oil, then places peeled and split bananas on the pan, scattering broken pieces of 70 percent-cacao chocolate bars over them and sprinkling with a little lemon juice.

“Within seven to 10 minutes, you have this chocolate-banana-citrus extravaganza,” Pellegrino said. “Dust it with confectioners’ sugar. And you can add mixed berries to that.”

He said he also likes to skewer chunks of pineapple, mango, apricots and plums, plus strawberries, cherries and grapes. Then he creates a sauce of 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, 2 tablespoons light brown sugar and 1 cup of water. Place the skewers on the grill over medium heat, about 350 degrees.

“Just baste them, not too heavy,” he said. “And then you just turn them until it starts to caramelize. You’ll see the grill marks on the fruit. It’s like making your own candy.”

A variation, he said, is to brush the grilling fruit with balsamic vinegar and sprinkle with some crushed black pepper.

“It’s like a symphony in your mouth,” he said. “It’s delicious, and again, real simple.”

Pellegrino also likes to make grilled peaches, halved and brushed with simple syrup and grilled until they’re charred. To go with them, he’ll make a mascarpone mousse with ½ cup heavy cream, 1 tablespoon of confectioners’ sugar, 2 tablespoons of honey, 1 cup of mascarpone and 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise. He adds some toasted walnuts and mint sprigs.

You can even grill citrus, he noted, which is especially effective with citrus-marinated and grilled pork or chicken. Simply cut lemons, limes or oranges in half and grill until slightly charred. Serve alongside the meat, to be squeezed over it.

“The grill sort of imparts an extra element of depth to the fruit,” he said.

McGonigle likes to grill pears and serve them in a salad with candied walnuts and mesclun, arugula and red-leaf lettuces, although he cautions that pears need to be grilled in foil because otherwise they get mushy and fall apart. He also likes apples, grilled with a cinnamon-and-brown-sugar mixture — which extends the grilling season even more.

GRILLED PORK CHOPS WITH NECTARINES

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

3½ teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil (divided use)

2 teaspoons minced garlic

4 (6-ounce) bone-in center-cut pork chops (about ½ inch thick)

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Cooking spray

2 ripe nectarines

½ teaspoon sugar

¼ teaspoon ground cumin

1/8 teaspoon ground red pepper

4 teaspoons mascarpone cheese

Preheat grill to medium-high heat.

Combine thyme, 3 teaspoons oil and garlic in a small bowl. Rub oil mixture evenly over pork chops; sprinkle with salt and black pepper. Place pork on grill rack coated with cooking spray; grill 3 minutes on each side or until desired degree of doneness. Let stand 10 minutes.

While pork stands, cut nectarines in half; discard pits. Combine sugar, remaining ½ teaspoon oil, cumin and red pepper in a small bowl. Sprinkle sugar mixture evenly over cut sides of nectarines. Place nectarines on grill rack coated with cooking spray; grill 5 minutes on each side, or until tender. Cut nectarines into wedges; top evenly with mascarpone cheese. Serve with pork.

Serves 4.

— Recipe from Cooking Light magazine

GRILLED WATERMELON SALAD

1 large sprig basil

1/3 cup plus ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing (divided use)

Three ½-inch-thick slices seedless watermelon, rind removed, each cut into 6 wedges for a total of 18 wedges

¼ cup fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon honey

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

12 ounces pea sprouts or watercress, with tender stems (about 12 cups) (see note)

½ cup (4 ounces) crumbled feta or queso fresco

¼ cup (1 ounce) shelled pumpkin seeds (pepitas), toasted

Heat basil and 1/3 cup oil in a small skillet over medium heat until basil begins to bubble. Simmer for 3 minutes. Remove pan from heat. Let cool for 1 hour. Discard basil; set basil oil aside.

Build a medium fire in a charcoal grill, or heat a gas grill to medium-high. Brush grill grate with oil. Grill watermelon until slightly charred, about 2 minutes per side. Set aside.

Whisk remaining ½ cup oil, lime juice and honey in a large bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add pea sprouts and toss to coat.

Place 3 pieces of grilled watermelon on each plate. Top with pea sprouts and drizzle basil oil over. Garnish with feta and pumpkin seeds.

Note: Pea sprouts are available at natural foods stores and Asian markets.

Serves 6.

— Recipe from “The Grilling Book: The Definitive Guide From Bon Appetit”

GRILLED LEMONS, ARTICHOKES

AND EGGPLANT

12 baby artichokes, stems trimmed, dark outer leaves removed

Kosher salt

Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing

12 Japanese eggplants, halved lengthwise, or 2 medium eggplants, cut crosswise into ½-inch-thick rounds

4 lemons, halved

Freshly ground black pepper

1 grill-roasted chicken

Cook baby artichokes in large saucepan of boiling salted water until tender when the bottom is pierced with a sharp knife, about 8 minutes. Drain and run under cold water to cool. Cut artichokes in half through stem; pat dry. (Can be made two days ahead. Cover and chill.)

Build a medium fire in a charcoal grill, or heat a gas grill to medium-high. Brush cooked artichokes, eggplants and cut side of lemons with oil and season with salt and pepper. Brush grill grate with oil. Grill vegetables, turning once, until tender and slightly charred, about 2 minutes per side. Grill lemons, cut side down, until charred, about 2 minutes. Transfer vegetables to platter with grill-roasted chicken; garnish with grilled lemons for squeezing over chicken.

Serves 6 to 8.

— Recipe from “The Grilling Book: The Definitive Guide From Bon Appetit”

MAPLE GRILLED PEACHES WITH

VANILLA ICE CREAM AND TOASTED PECANS

1/3 cup maple syrup

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

6 firm but ripe peaches, each cut in half

1½ tablespoons vegetable oil

1 quart vanilla ice cream

1/3 cup chopped toasted pecans

Prepare the grill for direct cooking over medium-low heat (350 degrees).

In a saucepan, combine the syrup, butter, cinnamon and salt. Cook over medium heat until the butter melts, 2 to 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Brush the peach halves with the oil. Grill the peaches, cut side down, over direct medium-low heat, with the lid closed, until they are lightly charred and starting to soften, about 4 minutes. Turn the peaches over and brush with a little of the sauce. Continue to grill until the peaches are tender, about 4 minutes more. Transfer the peaches to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes. Cut the peaches into wedges.

To serve, scoop ice cream into six serving bowls. Divide the peaches evenly among the bowls and drizzle with the remaining sauce. Top with the toasted pecans.

Serves 6.

— Recipe from “Weber’s New Real Grilling” by Jamie Purviance

JERK BEEF KEBABS WITH PINEAPPLE SALSA

Marinade:

1 Scotch bonnet or habanero chili pepper

3 scallions (white and light-green parts only), chopped

1/3 cup roughly chopped fresh basil leaves

¼ cup canola oil

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

2 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon ground allspice

1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 pounds top sirloin, about 1¼ inches thick, trimmed of excess fat, cut into 1¼-inch cubes

Salsa:

½ medium pineapple, cut into ¼-inch cubes

1 medium red bell pepper, finely chopped

1 scallion (white and light green parts only), finely chopped

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil leaves

1 teaspoon cider vinegar

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

Use metal or bamboo skewers; if using bamboo, soak in water for at least 30 minutes.

Wearing rubber gloves to avoid burning your skin, remove and discard the stem and seeds from the chili. Put the chili in a food processor along with the next nine ingredients and process until smooth.

Place the meat cubes in a large, resealable plastic bag and pour in the marinade. Press the air out of the bag and seal tightly. Turn the bag to distribute the marinade, place in a bowl and refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours.

Wearing rubber gloves, thread the meat onto the skewers and allow to stand at room temperature for 15 to 30 minutes before grilling. Discard the marinade.

Prepare the grill for direct cooking over high heat (450 to 550 degrees).

Combine the salsa ingredients.

Grill the kebabs over direct high heat, with the lid closed, until the meat is cooked to desired doneness (6 to 8 minutes for medium rare), turning occasionally. Remove the kebabs from the grill and serve warm with the salsa.

Serves 4.

— Recipe from “Weber’s New Real Grilling” by Jamie Purviance

Contact reporter Heidi Knapp Rinella at hrinella@review journal.com or 702-383-0474.