Spring, Easter menus call for fresh approach to meat, vegetable dishes

Spring has sprung, and with it springtime foods -- spring vegetables, lamb and much, much more -- are appearing across the valley, including on many home and restaurant Easter menus this Sunday.

Harris Okashige, executive chef at the Suncoast, figures it's about time.

"Everybody's eaten those hearty foods during the winter, those warm-type staples that keep you warm," Okashige said. "It's that time of year when we start shedding off. It's nice outside and everything's blooming and changing. Everything's fresh and really coming into season."

"Everything's blooming," agreed Joseph Kudrak, executive chef at T-Bones Chophouse at Red Rock Resort. "It's the best time of year for produce."

It's no coincidence that many springtime foods figure prominently in Easter meals. The egg -- one of the most popular symbols of Easter, because it represents rebirth -- is of course not a seasonal food. But spring vegetables, herbs, lamb and seafood also are significant parts of brunches and dinners.

Easter is associated with "young vegetables, young animals and stuff like that. Naturally, lamb is much better-tasting before it becomes mutton. We try to keep it fresh, we try to keep it light," said Phil Bonanno, executive chef at The Orleans.

"For me, spring is more about the lighter foods," said Okashige. "So I'm looking more toward herbed chicken with spring vegetables, different types of spring green salads, more with your baby lettuces, mesclun mix. Lamb chops are kind of that spring item that everybody's looking for toward Easter."

"We're just actually going to be rolling out a really nice spring pea soup, with mint and chervil," Kudrak said. Cabernet-braised lamb shanks will be served with ramps, which are milder than garlic or onion.

"Everybody tends to go toward lighter foods," he said, although he cited another tradition.

"Summer's coming, and they want to get ready for the beach or the lake."

HARD-COOKED EGG DIPPERS

4 hard-cooked eggs, peeled

4 thin pretzel sticks or crisp breadsticks

¼ cup refrigerated ranch or dill dip

Toppers: bacon bits, finely chopped carrots, finely chopped cucumber, etc.

Cut a small "X" in the larger end of each egg; insert a pretzel or breadstick, being careful not to split the egg.

Serve the egg pops with your choice of dip and favorite toppers.

Makes 4 servings.

-- Recipe from the American Egg Board

ARTICHOKE BENEDICT

4 slices (¼-inch thick) Canadian bacon

4 eggs

4 medium artichokes

Hollandaise sauce (recipe follows)

Brown Canadian bacon slices in skillet. Poach eggs in boiling, salted water.

Wash artichokes under cold running water. Pull off lower petals that are small or discolored. Cut stems close to base, using a stainless knife to prevent discoloration.

Cut off top quarter and tips of petals, if desired. (Some people like the look of clipped petals, but it really isn't necessary to remove the thorns. They soften with cooking and pose no threat to diners.)

Place prepared artichokes on a rack above an inch or two of boiling water. Cover and steam 25 to 45 minutes, depending on size, or until a petal near the center pulls out easily.

Spread leaves of artichoke open like flower petals. Remove center petals and fuzzy centers from artichokes and discard. Place bacon slices in artichoke centers, covering bottom, and top with poached eggs. Spoon on sauce and serve immediately.

Makes 4 servings.

Hollandaise sauce:

3 egg yolks

¼ cup water

2 tablespoons lemon juice

½ cup firm cold butter, cut into eighths

1/8 teaspoon paprika

Dash ground red pepper

Salt, to taste

In a small saucepan, heat together egg yolks, water and lemon juice. Cook over very low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture bubbles at edges. Stir in butter, 1 piece at a time, until melted and sauce is thickened. Add paprika, red pepper and salt, to taste. Remove from heat. Serve warm. (Cover and chill if not used immediately.)

Makes about ¾ cup.

-- Recipes from the California Artichoke Advisory Board

GRILLED ASPARAGUS WITH ROMESCO SAUCE

1½ pounds jumbo fresh asparagus, trimmed

Salt, as needed

Olive oil, as needed

Freshly ground pepper, as needed

¾ cup drained, roughly chopped roasted red bell pepper (from a jar)

2 tablespoons roughly chopped sundried tomato (packed in oil, drained)

2 1-inch slices baguette (about 1 ounce), lightly toasted, torn into pieces

2 tablespoons blanched, slivered almonds, toasted

1 clove garlic, roughly chopped

½ tablespoon white wine vinegar

½ tablespoon chopped parsley, preferably Italian flat leaf

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper, or to taste

Choose a frying pan large enough to hold asparagus in one layer. To blanche asparagus, bring approximately 3 inches of water to a boil. Stir in 1 tablespoon salt. Add asparagus. Cook at a medium boil until slightly underdone -- about 3 minutes, depending on thickness. Drain on paper towel; cool.

To grill, brush asparagus with olive oil. On an outdoor or a stove-top grill over medium-high heat, grill asparagus, turning frequently, until lightly browned and fork tender, about 5 minutes. Lightly season with salt and pepper. Cool.

Meanwhile place puree roasted red bell pepper and remaining ingredients in a food processor. With machine running, drizzle in 1½ tablespoons olive oil. If necessary, thin with 1 tablespoon water at a time until a thick, saucelike consistency is achieved. Reserve.

(Recipe can be made ahead to this point. Refrigerate cooled asparagus and sauce, tightly sealed, if serving more than 2 hours later. Return to room temperature before continuing.)

To serve, arrange asparagus on a serving platter or individual plates; serve with sauce.

Makes 6 servings.

-- Recipe from the California Asparagus Commission

BUTTERFLIED LEG OF AMERICAN LAMB WITH HERBS

½ cup olive oil

1 tablespoon dried basil

1 tablespoon oregano

1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic

1 teaspoon black pepper

3 to 4 pounds boneless lamb leg, butterflied

Blend oil with basil, oregano, garlic and pepper; pour half over meat and brush over both sides.

Grill lamb over medium coals in covered grill, about 6 inches from coals, for 20 to 25 minutes per side. Baste occasionally with remaining herbed olive oil.

Rest lamb for about 10 minutes, then slice crosswise at a diagonal slant.

Makes 8 servings.

-- Recipe from the American Lamb Board

Contact reporter Heidi Knapp Rinella at hrinella@ reviewjournal.com or 702-383-0474.