Straight Up casts a wide net to please customers
Straight Up Gaming & Martini Lounge, 4970 S. Fort Apache Road, goes around the world in 70 menu items.
"It's a little of everything," says executive chef Brett Chumley, pointing out dishes from Hawaii, Portugal, Italy and France.
"We've even done Thai shrimp as a special," Chumley says.
Of course, America also is represented with the classic (or veggie) burger and fries.
"Everything is done to order," Grumley says. "Only the french fries are frozen."
The decor -- which does not resemble its predecessor in the building, Redstone Grill -- is contemporary, with local artwork on the walls and blue velour on the halogen-lit booths.
The eclecticism is the idea of owner Charles Grosh, a real estate developer taking his first dip into the restaurant realm. Grosh circled the globe noting specific dishes he likes.
"We came in 20 days before opening, took a look at the menu and created the dishes," says Chumley, late of the late Becker's Steakhouse.
The idea has had the unintended consequence of a Hawaiian following, which makes the joint its own on Friday nights.
"I don't even know how that happened," Grumley says.
It's not easy being everything to everyone.
"But we are having a good time with it," Grumley says.
The restaurant -- which offers 15 specialty martinis -- is open 24 hours and seats 170. Reservations are recommended.
Signature dish: Pecan salmon, $18.95
Starters: Spicy ahi tuna, $12.95; crab cakes, $10.95; Hawaiian burger bites, $8.95
Soups and salads: Steak salad, $8.95; Straight Up Antipasto, $10.99; roasted red pepper bisque, $2.95/$3.95
Entrees: Grilled mahi-mahi, $18.95; polenta Napoleon, $13.95; Napa Valley chicken pasta, $15.95
Desserts: Peanut butter pie, $4.95; molten cake, $5.95; creme brulee, $7.95
Information: 367-9360
By COREY LEVITAN
