Finding My Ceviche

The first time I scooped ceviche into my mouth, fireworks went off. The texture and juxtaposition of spicy and sour ignited my curiosity. While I’ve had many variations since, I’m always on the lookout for something new. I found it at The Black Pearl.

At this pop-up restaurant tucked inside Peyote restaurant in Fergusons Downtown, chefs Daniel Arias and Isidro Marquez give ceviche a new name. It’s no longer just ceviche. “It’s an experience,” says Marquez. The chefs describe their food as refined and upscale, “Mexican but American-style,” Arias said.

Chefs Marquez and Arias want us to leave with an experience reminiscent of that first moment when the shrimp and aguachile met the inside of my mouth. Their shrimp aguachile has the perfect meld and balance. Perhaps it was also the coolness of the cucumber, cut spaghetti-style, and the salsa bendita (their chili oil blended from five types of dried chilies and spices) that left me feeling on top of my world.

Their knife skills are also superb. They meticulously cube each piece of tuna in their Tuna Ceviche. And their secret ingredient? Black garlic. “Black garlic adds sweetness, earthiness and gives it an umami flavor,” Arias says. It gives this ceviche a kick.

The two bring their own style and don’t limit themselves to traditional flavors and techniques. They incorporate French and Spanish influences from their classical culinary training, while their backgrounds marry Baja and Puebla flavors. Best of all, they’re not afraid of change, exposing themselves to many cultures to broaden their horizons. They play with flavors, textures and different products; for upcoming menus, think patés and combinations. “It’s more out-there food,” Arias says.

When we can look beyond the surface of a dish to the artistic nature of it, that connection can transform our experiences. One of those dishes for me is ceviche, and The Black Pearl gave me that elevated experience. — Sarah Bun